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A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Alter Ego de Palmer has a clean and fresh bouquet with blackberry, boysenberry, melted tar and dried rose petal aromas that gradually unfurl with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannin that lends this an austere personality, although it feels fairly well balanced and it has an easygoing finish that means…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

(the crop level here was freakishly low in 2012 owing to a hailstorm on July 4): Good deep red. Very dark, medicinal aromas of blackberry, blueberry, licorice and black pepper. Broad and fine-grained but powerful and youthfully closed, with its acids and tannins currently clashing on the back. In a distinctly tough style, finishing with…

Vinous Table: Arpège, Paris, France (Nov 2018)

Last but not least, the still much-too-young 2012 Jean-Frédéric Mugnier Nuit-Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale, from one of my favorite Burgundy producers, proves just the right match for the rack of pork, offering flinty and smoky nuances to the sweet red and black cherry fruit. Made from atypically low yields due to a summer hailstorm,…

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

The 2012 Nuits St. Georges Clos de la Maréchale marks a pretty significant stylistic shift in this tasting, but, then again, the Clos de la Maréchale suffered through a brutal hailstorm in July that lowered the crop dramatically. A core of dark red/black stone fruits, spices, mocha and leather opens up nicely, but the effect…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Les Ormes de Pez has an impressive bouquet with blackberry, raspberry and crushed violet/iris aromas that unfold in the glass and eventually attain impressive vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, plenty of sappy black fruit, an engaging sense of energy with a brisk, delineated finish that is nicely focused. It just…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

Glass-staining inky-purple. Sassafras, Oriental spices and licorice on the nose, then sweet spicy plums, tamarind, prune and a distinct salty element on the palate. Finishes with good breadth and fine, building tannins that leave the mouth a little dry.