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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Phelan Ségur has a really lovely bouquet with brambly red fruit, brown spices, touches of damp undergrowth and tobacco. This feels complex and very well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, good acidity, very harmonious with an elegant off-dry, slightly savoury finish. It is not the most ambitious Saint-Estèphe but…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

59% merlot and 41% cabernet sauvignon; 50% new oak Ruby-purple. Intense aromas of black plum, chocolate-covered blackberry and violet. Rich and dense, with lovely intensity to the black fruit, graphite and tar flavors. Bright acidity gives this lively midweight an almost Burgundian palate feel. Finishes long and seamless, with an attractive lingering floral note and…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Yquem is consistent with previous encounters. It has a fresh nose thanks to the contribution of the 30% Sauvignon Blanc, not as complex as other vintages, yet delineated with lemon rind and lychee hints bubbling up with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a keen line of acidity, pure and…

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

(70% semillon and 30% sauvignon blanc; 13.1% alcohol and 140 g/l residual sugar; total acidity of almost 6 g/l): Luminous medium yellow-gold. Almost Germanic in its perfumed, bright aromas of tangerine, grapefruit, peach, lemon, lichee and ginger. Lush but very fresh, with bracing limey acidity giving sharp definition to the complex flavors of honey, ginger,…

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 d’Yquem is rich, honeyed and voluptuous in the glass, but never excessively heavy. Crème brulee, candied lemon, apricot jam, orange marmalade, sweet spices and almond paste meld together in a Sauternes built on class and finesse What a gorgeous wine this is.

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2017 Yquem is destined to be one of my favourite recent vintages. It has brilliant delineation on the nose with acacia honey, saffron, white flowers and a subtle crushed stone element. So much energy is palpable. The palate is supremely well balanced, surfeit with energy, spicy and feisty and yet paradoxically beautifully controlled and…