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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Ruby-red, not quite as deep as the ’96. Exotic, sweet aromas of currant, lead pencil, spice and woodsmoke. A huge wine that conveys a sense of sheer power, but not quite as delineated or stylish as the ’96. This really explodes on the aftertaste, but the ’96 is more subtle. Clearly first-growth size, but less…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1995 Mouton Rothschild was tasted from ex-château bottles, and I had not tasted this vintage for a number of years. This puts in a very good performance given that it was not an auspicious decade for the First Growth. A mélange of red and black fruit gradually gives way to cassis on the nose,…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1988 Lafite-Rothschild is the best of the triumvirate that ended the decade. Another bottle vindicates that view. It shows an intense bouquet with graphite-tinged black fruit mixed with cedar aromatics that seem to effortlessly cruise as Lafite is wont to do. The palate is beautifully balanced and blossoms in the glass. The 1988 has…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Cheval Blanc boasts stunning power and a vertical, imposing sense of structure that is quite rare in this vintage. Dark and almost brooding in style, the Cheval is a rare 2012 that absolutely demands cellaring. Smoke, tobacco, incense and dark spices open up with time, but the 2012 is a reticent, tannic wine…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(54% merlot and 46% cabernet franc): Good full ruby-red. Expressive, nuanced nose offers red cherry, strawberry, minerals and a hint of violet. Sweet and round on entry, then increasingly austere toward the back, with peppery and minty elements lifting the dark cherry and cassis flavors. I noticed some bottle variation with my samples on the…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Cheval Blanc has a lovely bouquet with raspberry coulis, hints of marmalade and just a touch of espresso, nicely detailed though not intense. The palate is medium-bodied with a strict entry. This is quite backward and tight, lightly spiced with a touch of sour cherry and cracked black pepper on the finish. This…