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Where Art Thou Chablis? – Chablis 2021 & 2022 (Sep 2023)

The 2021 Chablis Les Fourneaux 1er Cru was hugely impressive from barrel. Now, in bottle, it explodes from the glass with mineral-rich scents, flinty with hints of dried honey (like last time). The well-balanced palate has a superb bead of acidity, with salinity and tension that evoke images of a wintry sea. Brilliant.

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Saint-Aubin Clos de la Chatenière 1er Cru is another example of a reduced white burgundy, although it is not as heavy as Bachelet’s Champlots. It does, however, miss a bit of complexity and personality. The palate is quite sharp on the entry with pointed citric acidity that does not quite gel with the…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has a clean and precise bouquet, not intense, yet focused and gaining clarity with time. The palate is well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite saline with admirable persistence on the finish. This is worth seeking out.

Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Meursault Charmes 1er Cru has the leanest aromatics among the series of wines from this climat, some reduction deftly applied and allowing the terroir to shine through. Great tension on the waxy, linseed-tinged nose is maintained over 30 minutes. The palate is well-balanced with finely tuned acidity. There’s the tiniest of reductions, yet…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Combe Aux Moines 1er Cru is perhaps in the shade of the Goulots at the moment, with touches of graphite seeping through the dark berry fruit and a hint of black tea. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy black and citrus fruit but tightly wound with an orange rind twist towards the…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

Raised in 25% new oak, the 2022 Côtes de Nuits Villages has plenty of dark berries, black tea, and sous-bois aromas on the nose. There is a real presence here. The medium-bodied palate has slightly grainy tannins, black cherries and raspberry mixed with clove and bay leaf towards its cohesive, quite structured finish. Excellent.