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Domaines Great & Small: Burgundy Interim Report (Aug 2025)

The 2006 Echézeaux Grand Cru, the maiden vintage, has a simple bouquet with fully mature scents of leather, musk and pain grillé, the oak a bit too present even after almost two decades. The palate is medium-bodied and fleshy with supple tannins and gentle grip, pleasurable but missing the cerebral aspect that Louis-Michel has introduced…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Good deep, dark red. Sexy aromas of musky red raspberry, smoke, minerals and earth; cooler than the 2007. Suave on entry, then quite tight in the middle, with a fine grain to the brisk red fruit flavors. Very bright, perfumed wine with the energy of the vintage’s best examples. Finishes with terrific lift. At once…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Deep ruby-red color. More expressive aromas of crystallized dark berries, dark chocolate and animal fur. Lush and sweet; thick but delineated. Wonderfully concentrated. This, too, seems rather withdrawn today, but the strength of material is clear to see. Finishes with firm tannins and explosive fruit that goes on and on.

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2011)

(72% cabernet sauvignon, 19% merlot and 9% cabernet franc; pH 3.68; IPT 64; 12.4% alcohol; 88% new oak; 95% selection for the grand vin): Very dark, fully saturated ruby to the rim. Deep, brooding, rich aromas of blackberry, violet, milk chocolate, black pepper, cedar and incense; sexy and captivating. Bright and focused on entry, then…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Sappy redcurrant and spice nose. Bright, fruity and juicy in the mouth; firmly built and fairly intensely flavored, but the tannins seem slightly dry in comparison to the ’96.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Reticent nose combines currant, nuts, and shoe polish. More tightly wrapped than the Armailhac, but also larger and more powerfully structured. Seems a bit more rustic than the ’96 Clerc-Milon. Finishes with very good length and tongue-coating tannins.