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2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Phélan Ségur is fabulous, perhaps a little on the ripe side, but still notable. Black cherry, gravel, scorched earth, cloves and licorice explode onto the palate. Virile and brooding, Phélan Ségur screams with character and personality.

Breaking the Mold: Campania’s Push to Reinvent Itself (May 2024)

Drop-dead gorgeous, the 2015 Taurasi Riserva della Società takes things to another level. A hauntingly dark and floral bouquet mixes plum and cherry sauces with lavender, sage, violets and hints of dark chocolate. This possesses textures of crushed velvet, polished and refined, with a zesty core of acidity grumbling beneath and a wave of ripe…

Cellar Favorite: Champagne Louis Roederer – Inflection Points

The 2014 Cristal Rosé is fascinating to taste next to the 2015 and a few older vintages, as it is decidedly linear and taut, signatures that are typical of the year. Cranberry, chalk, mint, white pepper and blood orange are all finely sculpted. This is an especially fine showing. I imagine the 2014 will flesh…

One Night in Taipei: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg 1995-2017 (Jun 2025)

The 2014 Richebourg Grand Cru has an exquisite bouquet with wonderful transparency and Pinoté, displaying vivid red cherries and crushed strawberry fruit, lively and tensile. The palate is medium-bodied with plenty of energy right from the start. It boasts finely tuned tannins, none of the greenness that afflicts some of its peers, with real nerve…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(just seven barrels were produced from the estate’s nearly two hectares of vines, which Baudin described as a catastrophe): Pale bright yellow. Apple, white peach and a floral note on the nose. Spicy and fresh; a nicely shaped wine with modest complexity and personality but good concentration. More saline than the above samples but I…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(just seven barrels were produced from the estate’s nearly two hectares of vines, which Baudin described as a catastrophe): Pale bright yellow. Apple, white peach and a floral note on the nose. Spicy and fresh; a nicely shaped wine with modest complexity and personality but good concentration. More saline than the above samples but I…