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A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Yquem is consistent with previous encounters. It has a fresh nose thanks to the contribution of the 30% Sauvignon Blanc, not as complex as other vintages, yet delineated with lemon rind and lychee hints bubbling up with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a keen line of acidity, pure and…

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

(70% semillon and 30% sauvignon blanc; 13.1% alcohol and 140 g/l residual sugar; total acidity of almost 6 g/l): Luminous medium yellow-gold. Almost Germanic in its perfumed, bright aromas of tangerine, grapefruit, peach, lemon, lichee and ginger. Lush but very fresh, with bracing limey acidity giving sharp definition to the complex flavors of honey, ginger,…

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 d’Yquem is rich, honeyed and voluptuous in the glass, but never excessively heavy. Crème brulee, candied lemon, apricot jam, orange marmalade, sweet spices and almond paste meld together in a Sauternes built on class and finesse What a gorgeous wine this is.

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2017 Yquem is destined to be one of my favourite recent vintages. It has brilliant delineation on the nose with acacia honey, saffron, white flowers and a subtle crushed stone element. So much energy is palpable. The palate is supremely well balanced, surfeit with energy, spicy and feisty and yet paradoxically beautifully controlled and…

2017 Bordeaux: The Heart of the Matter (May 2018)

A wine of almost shocking, raw power, the 2017 d’Yquem possesses tremendous depth and intensity. I expect the 2017 is going to need many years to be at its best, but is also likely to remain exuberant and a bit unruly. I don’t see the quiet sophistication of the 2015, or the energy of the…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux, Ten Years On

The 2016 Yquem has a more “serious” bouquet than many other Sauternes, more nuanced with dried honey, lanolin, saffron and beeswax. The palate is exquisite, quite intense with pure botrytised fruit, just a patina of extant oak, yet real depth and enormous length. Marvellous, even if I would not place the 2016 in the top…