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1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Excellent deep, saturated color. Sexy aromas of black cherry, cassis, and toasty, smoky oak. Wonderful sweetness and texture, with terrific perfume. More pliable than the ’95 Las Cases. Tannins are extremely well integrated for a cabernet-based ’94. I don’t find the austerity that Delon cites.

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 1994 Léoville Las Cases has a really lovely bouquet with red berry fruit, sous-bois, cedar and tobacco, an archetypical Las Cases with plenty of vigor. The palate is well balanced, a little austere but in a good way, with fine cohesion and freshness. Tobacco and black pepper appear on the finish. Given market prices,…

Giacomo Conterno: Seven Decades of Barolo Riserva Monfortino

The 1996 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is total class. What a wine. It’s also one of the first Monfortinos I tasted on release. Deep layers of spiced, mentholated and balsamic notes enshroud a core of dark Nebbiolo fruit. Gravel, incense and licorice emerge over time, rounding out the picture of a classic, old-school Barolo like those…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2002)

Moderately saturated medium red. Compelling aromas of dried fruits, fig and minerals, along with an exotic suggestion of apricot. Dense, thick and spicy, with a superripe hint of marzipan and powerful framing acids that currently dominate the middle palate. A classically styled, very tannic Barolo that’s extremely hard to taste today. I would not be…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2012 Salon is absolutely gorgeous. It offers a beguiling mix of radiance and energy that seems to capture a little bit of elements of some of its older siblings. The expression of fruit is radiant and quite overt, but without reaching the tropical exuberance of the 2006. In shape, the 2012 recalls the mid-weight…

Salon Cuvée S 1996-2013 at Vinous Icons

The 2012 Cuvée S is quite shy today. I take that as an excellent sign for its long-term prospects. Bright, vibrant and super refined, the 2012 starts to open with a bit of coaxing. Most bottles have been much more open than this.