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Champagne: The 2026 Spring Preview

The 2010 Dom Ruinart continues to develop well, becoming even more wine-like. Lemon confit, marzipan, baked apple tart, chamomile and gently spiced overtones all meld together, perfectly woven into the wine’s texture and mousse. Ultimately, the 2010 impresses with its captivating beauty and mind-blowing balance, both especially remarkable in a year in which very few…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Boudots 1er Cru has a ripe and showy bouquet with plush black cherries and cassis fruit, though it does not fully possess the delineation of its peers. Yet I still find the aromatics attractive and not overbearing. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins that give it a fleshy mouthfeel,…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru has a more fruit-driven bouquet than Mallard’s Corton Renard: plummy, mulberry and light iris flower scents unfold in the glass, impressive in terms of presence. The palate is medium-bodied with thick, juicy tannins. This is quite a bold and fleshy Corton, though it feels a little…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1997 Yquem comes from a season that witnessed the earliest-ever flowering (5 May) and an early picking that began on 4 September, though botrytis failed to develop, necessitating seven tries through the vineyard over 32 days of picking that lasted until 4 November. One aspect to note is how deep in colour this is…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright medium ruby. Brooding, pure aromas of blackberry, blueberry, boysenberry, espresso and minerals. Wonderfully dense yet weightless, with a penetrating calcaire energy to its sappy black fruit and mineral flavors. This has filled out impressively since its early days in barrel but is still just at the beginning of its evolution. The slowly mounting, compellingly…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2009)

(still in barrel, as Conterno felt it needed longer to resolve its tannins) Very sexy, gamey aromas of redcurrant and truffley underbrush. Like an elixir of black fruits, smoky minerals and menthol on the nose, with penetrating acidity providing almost painful cut. Also the most tannic wine in the cellar today, and incredibly primary considering…