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Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 2003 La Mission Haut-Brion is one of the few examples of this infamous vintage that has improved in bottle, though it’s still far from a first- or even second-tier La Mission. My most recent bottle displays all the tropes of that hot summer: black cherries, fig, singed leather and cooked meats. It does not…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Medium red-ruby. Raspberry, smoked meat and truffle on the nose, with a slightly liqueur-like ripeness. Dense, fat and seamless; unusually soft and lush for a young La Mission, with compelling sweetness. But there are also huge, ripe tannins underneath. Finishes very sweet, suave and long.

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 2003 Latour remains a redoubtable First Growth and a testament to its terroir that manifested such a great wine in a challenging growing season. You could argue that it does not disguise the heat of that notorious summer as deftly as the 2003 Montrose since there is still a touch more volatility here than…

One Night in Taipei: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg 1995-2017 (Jun 2025)

The 2017 Richebourg Grand Cru is a fitting end to a vertical that several attendees voted wine of the night. It has a riveting bouquet, very harmonious with Earl-Grey-tinged red fruit, forest floor and hints of crushed stone. Wonderful delineation. The palate has exquisite balance and poise, a little powdery in texture with gentle grip….

One Night in Taipei: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg 1995-2017 (Jun 2025)

The 2017 Richebourg Grand Cru is a fitting end to a vertical that several attendees voted wine of the night. It has a riveting bouquet, very harmonious with Earl-Grey-tinged red fruit, forest floor and hints of crushed stone. Wonderful delineation. The palate has exquisite balance and poise, a little powdery in texture with gentle grip….

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2010 Rieussec is similar to the previous bottle a couple of years ago. It has since opened with saffron-tinged honeyed fruit, dried honey and almond shavings. This example is more vanillary and oaky than previous ones, and that actually distracts from the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied; again, the new oak feels more…