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2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Pape Clément is strikingly beautiful. Dark, sumptuous and creamy, it exudes class. Black cherry, mocha, spice, espresso, menthol and new leather are all pushed forward in a spherical, rich wine that captivates all the senses. As always, this is an overt style, but the purity of the fruit comes through nicely now that…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Pape Clément has a more opulent and showier bouquet than the Domaine de Chevalier tasted alongside, with red berry fruit, sandalwood, Indian spices and high-toned blue fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and layered black fruit laced with black pepper, cedar and spice box. The finish conveys more panache than the…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Angélus is striking. Cabernet Franc aromatics make a strong first impression. Vibrant and delineated, the 2018 is incredibly refined in every way. The move towards a bit less extraction really seems to let the purity of the fruit come through. The same is true of a reduction of oak. All the elements come…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

As I mentioned in my tasting note from barrel, the 2018 Angélus is the first vintage aged in two new foudres. It is very perfumed on the nose, one of the most floral that I can recall at this early stage. Violet and incense aromas percolate through the precise blackberry and cassis fruit, all displaying…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Angélus has a ripe and generous bouquet with black cherry, espresso, dark chocolate and peppermint aromas, but it doesn't have the precision of the best Right Bank wines. The palate is very plush and forward, with velvety tannins and hints of chocolate chips infusing the red fruit. It's another 2015 that inches toward…

A Look Back at the 2008 Barolos (May 2014)

Sadly, Roberto Voerzio’s 2008 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata/Torriglione is oxidized. I have seen these wines require quite a bit of air to show their best. That’s what I hoped would happen here, as the bottle I tasted for the video that accompanies this article was one of the better bottles in the room. As time passes,…