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Castillo Ygay 1959–2016: A Legacy in Present Tense

The 2000s mark another stylistic adjustment here. For a wine with such history, this decade recalibrates ripeness and élevage in a way that feels increasingly tailored to each vintage. The 2004 Castillo Ygay (93% Tempranillo, 7% Mazuelo) starts with a darker fruit profile and carries a clearly defined oak signature: cedar, a touch of lavender,…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Red-ruby. Raspberry, plum, licorice and mocha on the nose, plus suggestions of meat, leather and burning tobacco. Supple and smooth on entry, then a bit simple in the middle palate, with a slight mintiness emerging with aeration. This is less filled in than the promising 2006, with less verve and definition. Finishes broad but slightly…

Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023 (Apr 2025)

The 2003 Giscours has a slightly Mediterranean bouquet, almost Tuscan, with notes of licorice and mint-infused black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins and low acidity, quite muscular for a Margaux and missing some brightness on the finish. Like many Bordeaux this vintage, it feels a bit “flightless.”

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1970 Giscours is a wine that I have tasted three or four times over the years, though curiously, the least impressive was at the Giscours vertical held at the château in 2015, which I suspect might have had a bit of TCA. But the last bottle was reminiscent of two wonderful examples I tasted…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2013 Dom Pérignon is pretty closed right now. Deep and layered, the 2013 shows quite a bit of density today. It’s a typical wine for this vintage, a year marked by a warm summer but a late harvest because the growing season got off to a late start. The 2013 is finally starting to…

Henschke Mount Edelstone 1956-2024: A Rare Gem Comes of Age

The 2016 Shiraz Mount Edelstone offers robust layers of blackberry and sandy earth with warming alcohol. It is a bold and muscular expression of site, with impressive fruit power, minerality and tannin density. The finish is strong, tannic and beautifully composed. This will be fabulous in time.