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Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 2004 Batailley has long been one of the hidden pleasures of this vintage. Now at 14 years of age I find no reason to alter that view. Here it has a pure bouquet with blackberry, cedar and a touch of kirsch, the latter a trait that I have not noticed before. The palate is…

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2010)

Inky purple. Liqueur-like blackberry and dark chocolate aromas are complicated by suggestions of potpourri, Indian spices and cola. Lush, broad and seamless, offering dense dark berry and violet pastille flavors and a sneaky note of vanillin oak. Open-knit and very attractive now, finishing with mounting spiciness and excellent clarity. Undeniably rich but this wine’s energy…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Village, matured in 15% new oak, has a flint and forest floor-scented bouquet offering more vigor than the Bourgogne Blanc. The palate is fresh on the entry with a silver bead of acidity, green apple and a touch of bitter lemon, fanning out gently towards the more-ish finish.

Chianti Classico: Riding Out the Storm (Jul 2025)

The 2022 Tignanello is all class and refinement. Crushed flowers, mint, white pepper, blood orange and cinnamon all grace a Tignanello defined by a decidedly sophisticated personality. The 2022 has started to flesh out nicely, especially in the mid-palate, but it remains very much on the understated side of things relative to most vintages.

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2004)

Good fresh, deep red. Superripe, deep aromas of plum, mocha and smoky oak. Very rich, ripe and chewy, with a rare creaminess of texture and terrific depth. Utterly velvety mouth feel. Finishes with huge but lush tannins. A very good showing.

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Calon-Ségur has a slightly gamey bouquet, vibrant and energetic with plenty of red and black fruit. This appears to gain complexity with aeration, revealing hidden facets with each swirl of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity and a really gorgeous, surprisingly fleshy but focused finish…