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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Vieux Robin shrugs off a bit of reduction on the nose to reveal attractive brambly red fruit laced with clove and woodland scents. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins, but nicely balanced, leading to a lilting blackberry and citrus finish. Drink over the next 4–5 years.

2022 Barolo: Half-Full or Half-Empty?

The 2024 Langhe Freisa is especially fine. Thick skins and loose bunches were ideal in this rainy vintage. Deep and layered, with tons of energy, the Freisa is truly superb in 2024. Dark-toned fruit, gravel, incense, game, licorice and dried herbs all come alive in the glass. Sweet spice and floral top notes resonate on…

2022 Barolo: Half-Full or Half-Empty?

The 2024 Dolcetto d’Alba is bright, bold and punchy. Blue-toned fruit, lavender, sage and mint show terrific energy and vibrancy because of the cool year and the decision to use 70% stems, very high for this wine. Give the 2024 six months to a year to come together. It’s another super-distinctive wine in this range.

Alsace 1998 and 1997 (Jul 1999)

Lime, chalk, peach and a peppery nuance on the nose. Great creamy ripeness in the middle palate; slightly sweet but thoroughly vibrant flavors of mineral dust, lime, grapefruit pith and dried apricot. Impeccably balanced riesling. This is really extraordinarily fresh and slow to evolve for a 1990 riesling. The finish leaves a coating of dusty…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Sauvage aromas of red- and blackcurrant, roast coffee, licorice and game. Bright, pure dark berry flavor is juicy and sharply delineated. Really comes alive in the mouth. Finishes very long and subtle, with berry and floral notes and even, mouthdusting tannins. This is much more tender today than the lower-pH ’94 made here. Like the…

Six Decades of Pavie-Macquin: 1928-2018 (May 2020)

The 1995 Pavie-Macquin lacks both mid-palate and freshness. Time in the glass brings out a range of pretty floral and savory notes, but the 1995 is rather light. Of course, 1995 was a vintage with high yields. The realities facing the new management were stark as the château struggled for its survival. “We needed to…