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Pages in the Photo Album: Vieux Château Certan 1928-2013 (Mar 2022)

The 1982 Vieux Château Certan has an endearing nose with plenty of red fruit, raspberry and crushed strawberry, laced with black truffle and melted tar. The palate is medium-bodied with fine balance, quite structured with insistent grip. Fully mature, this 1982 has a delicate spicy finish, though comparing this with previous notes, it suggests that…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good red-ruby. Redcurrant, leather and game on the expressive if slightly rustic nose. Sweet and concentrated but a bit youthfully aggressive, and not showing the refinement or definition of the 2006. Strong nutty oak component. Finishes with substantial tannins that are a bit richer and more fully buffered by the wine’s middle-palate material than those…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Gruaud Larose, which was decanted for 30 minutes upon my request, replicated its performance a couple of years ago. This was the final vintage to include Malbec (1%). It has a very “useful” bouquet of blackberry, juniper berries and cedar that opens with vigour in the glass with satisfying intensity. The palate is…

2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

(about two-thirds mourvedre) Opaque purple. An explosive, room-filling bouquet of ripe raspberry, blackcurrant and boysenberry scents, along with sexy floral, herb and cured meat nuances. Incredibly silky, with medium-weight red and dark berry preserve and cured tobacco flavors and superb mineral lift. Velvety tannins melt into the deep, dark fruit, which carries endlessly through the…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Bright yellow-gold. Deep aromas of lime, peach, quince, minerals, menthol and saffron are complicated by tangy botrytis tones. Ripe, creamy flavors of peach, lime and lemon verbena show noteworthy sweetness and power, with harmonious acidity providing lift. This very rich, textured wine coats the palate with tropical fruit and mineral flavors that linger impressively on…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Guiraud offers attractive scents of dried honey, pressed white flowers and honeysuckle. The palate is medium-bodied with quite a concentrated opening, fine acidity, spicier than its peers with a botrytis-laden finish that has just the right amount of bite. Excellent. Tasted blind at the annual 10-Year-On tasting.