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Chablis Gets the Côte de Beaune Treatment from Mother Nature (Jul 2016)

Bright, pale yellow. Lovely perfumed lift to the aromas and flavors of lemon zest, grapefruit and white flowers. Tactile and dense but very closed on the palate, combining a sexy sweetness for the year with powerful salinity and superb depth. Most impressive today on the energetic, slowly mounting, palate-staining finish, which leaves the retronasal passage…

Tuscany’s Maremma: Scenes from the Coast

The 2023 Sassicaia is elegant and supremely polished. Dark, ample and mysterious, the 2023 has much to offer once it opens up a bit. Blackberry, gravel, incense and new leather convey tons of somber intensity. Cabernet Sauvignon speaks quite loudly in the 2023, despite the wine’s midweight structure. Tenuta San Guido’s 2023 Sassicaia is one…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Grand Village Blanc sizzles with tension and energy. Lemon peel, slate, crushed rocks, mint and white pepper are finely sketched. The 2021 offers a striking mix of vibrancy and textural depth. In recent years, the Blanc has shown a bit more mid-palate richness, and that has paid off handsomely.

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Grand Village Blanc has tightened up since I tasted in barrel, showing hints of white peach and orchard fruit with a dab of chai tea in the background. The palate is well-balanced with a keen thread of acidity. Notes of lime cordial move into a spicy finish that tingles on the tongue after…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

(65% merlot and 35% cabernet franc): Bright, moderately saturated ruby-red. Wonderfully floral, pure nose offers penetrating blueberry, red cherry and violet scents. Sweet on entry, then tight and youthfully medicinal in the middle, with flavors of blackcurrant, raspberry and camphor complicated by a strong mineral presence. A wonderfully balanced Lafleur, but with a firm tannic…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(a blend of 54% cabernet franc and 46% merlot; 32 hl/ha; a 65% selection for the grand vin Pretty ruby color. Very reticent, mineral-driven nose reluctantly releases scents of pure violet, raspberry and spicy red cherry. On the palate, there are pristine flavors of red fruits, minerals and delicate sweet spices. Absolutely seamless already but…