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Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(13.5% alcohol without chaptalization; the estate did only one vinification, as the younger vines that normally go into a Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru were much more affected by the frost; just 12.5 hectoliters per hectare produced, yielding just five barrels of wine, three of them new): Dark red-ruby. Black cherry, complex soil tones and licorice on…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru exhibits more whole bunch character than the other four “CSJs”. Brambly red fruit, brown spices and a touch of wet limestone. This is unquestionably the most transparent of the five. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, slightly coarser tannins but so much energy and tension….

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru is blessed with a very detailed bouquet of crushed stone intermixed with dark cherries, raspberry and hints of pain d’épices and gingerbread. You could keep nosing this all day. The palate is succulent on the entry, and the fleshy red fruit is infused with orange peel and marmalade….

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Champ Gain 1er Cru has a little more phenolics on the nose compared to the Les Masures, with just a hint of peach skin in the background behind the more malic scents. The palate is well balanced with a fresh citric line of acidity, and a dab of sour lemon decorates the…

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Rully Meix Cadot 1er Cru hails from vines planted in 1980. Like the previous vintage, it has an attractive bouquet containing quite vibrant notes of citrus fruit, walnut and a touch of smoke. The palate is well balanced, with a slightly honeyed texture countervailing acidic spices. This is a grippy, concentrated Rully with…

Northern Rhône 2024: One Hill Rises

The complex 2023 Saint-Joseph emerges initially with pronounced orange rind, fresh violets and pencil shavings. Black cherries add more nuance. Refined and smooth, the 2023 sports spot-on overall balance between elevated flavour concentration, fresh acidity and notably refined tannins lending gentle structure. A delicious red Saint-Joseph from the talented Gonon brothers that’s going to benefit…