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1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Deep ruby-red. Dark berries, roasted nuts, mocha, espresso and bitter chocolate on the nose. Very concentrated and bright, with the flavors framed by firm tannic spine. Showing a bit more grip today than the ’99, but the ’99 may have more sweetness and density and possesses the stuffing to benefit from the elevage.

A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Cantenac Brown was a stunner from barrel. Now in bottle, it has a vivacious bouquet highlighting blackberry, wild strawberry and cedar aromas, with hints of violet emerging over time. It shows wonderful delineation and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins, fruit that is a little blacker than its peers, gentle grip,…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Cantenac Brown offers up copious dark fruit, chocolate, licorice, new leather and cloves. A wine of palpable volume and heft, the Cantenac Brown is a very big Margaux endowed with broad shoulders and plenty of volume. The tannins are large-scaled and imposing. I find the 2022 a bit tough in its overall feel,…

Keeping Everyone Happy: Southwold Bordeaux 2022

The 2022 Smith Haut-Lafitte has another very refined and sophisticated bouquet, with discreet touches of white pepper and sage that season that black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very well defined, with a dash of spice towards the peacock’s tail finish. Very satisfying and vying for the best Pessac-Léognan in the flight….

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Smith Haut Lafitte is silky, elegant and nuanced. It's all there. A wine of precision and class, the 2022 is so impressive. Refined, supple tannins wrap around a core of blue/purplish fruit, lavender, espresso and mocha. I find the 2022 a bit buttoned up today, but that is probably a very good thing…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Potensac offers brambly red fruit on the nose mixed with sage and touches of black tea, though this does oxidize a little within a couple of minutes. The palate is chewy with firm grip. Quite a dense 2011, a little rough hewn but with a pleasant bitter edge on the saline finish. Tasted…