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Juxtapose With You: Pétrus, Lafleur & Le Pin (Feb 2018)

Tasted at the Pomerol Comparative Exploration tasting in London, the 2005 Le Pin has never quite lived up to the billing when compared to other vintages from Jacques Thienpont’s iconic Pomerol estate, yet that is begrudging what is still a gorgeous wine. It remains very youthful and limpid in colour. The bouquet is much more…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Good deep ruby-red. Knockout nose combines black raspberry, licorice, tobacco, iron, minerals and flowers. Densely packed, juicy and floral if a bit youthfully musclebound; lovely minerality here. Finishes tight and long, with some oak yet to be absorbed. Today I don’t find this wine’s normal exuberance but then it’s in cuve today and in a…

Joel Payne on Germany 2007 (Jan 2009)

Pale golden yellow. Classy bouquet of ripe apple, vanilla and sweet herbs. Rich on the palate, with a salty, resinous character and undeniably sweet apricot fruit. Unctuous yet vibrantly spicy, with a long, complex finish. This still needs time but will be a great auslese.

Vinous Table: Brasserie Lipp, Paris, France (Jun 2015)

Two desserts might seem a little decadent for just one wine writer, but I couldn’t resist the 2002 Château Climens at an especially fair price on the short but well thought out wine list and so two desserts seemed the right thing to do. Politely styled but not shy on noble rot, this Climens from…

2003 and 2002 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2005)

Palish yellow. High-toned but quite closed on the nose today, hinting at honey and nuts. Then quite pure and aromatic in the mouth, offeringflavors of citrus fruits and honey. Perfumed and nicely delineated, if a bit sweeter and softer than I would have expected for this chateau in this vintage. Finishes long and lively.

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 2002 Climens, which contains 145g/L residual sugar, has a relatively simple nose with quite high-toned barley sugar and saffron scents. A bit like the 2003, it just misses a bit of Climens magic. The palate is balanced and tangy on the entry, something quite medicinal here with hints of liquorice and blood orange leading…