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Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière 1er Cru, blended with 60% whole bunches, has a precise, detailed bouquet with blackberry, wild hedgerow, and discrete oyster shell scents percolating through with time. The medium-bodied palate has firm tannins, slightly tarry black fruit, and gentle grip with a nicely structured, black pepper and clove-tinged finish. A…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2021 Auxey-Duresses Village has a perfumed, light, transparent nose with redcurrant, cranberry and touches of tomato vine. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, a crisp line of acidity, and a slight chewiness on the finish. Perhaps a bit rustic compared to the 2020 last year; this should be consumed over the following…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(14% alcohol; no frost here): Deep ruby-red. Superripe, even slightly roasted aromas of black raspberry and chocolate are at the verge of extreme. Hugely sweet, creamy wine with adequate acidity but a distinctly candied fruit character for the year. Finishes very long and a bit aggressive but not quite warm, with big, chewy tannins accentuated…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Griottes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a more open bouquet than the Mazis-Chambertin, offering nicely focused blackberry, briar and pencil box aromas and good intensity. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and zesty, with fine tannins and blood orange infusing the blue fruit on the persistent finish. Superb, though it needs several years in the cellar.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Chaffots 1er Cru has (another) very well defined bouquet with redcurrant, cranberry and sous-bois aromas, a little stemminess in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, impressive depth, but what underpins this premier cru is the freshness and tension on the finish. It should age with style. Superb.

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is beguiling and pure on the nose with perfumed red cherries, raspberry and cranberry – blossoming with aeration. The palate is everything that you really wish for in a Clos de la Roche: impressive structure, multi-layered red fruit, mineralité that belies the warmth of the summer and…