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Close to the Edge: Chablis 2018 & 2019 (Sep 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Les Butteaux 1er Cru has plenty of energy on the nose, offering scents of crushed stone and chalk, hints of fresh green apples and a touch of spice. The palate is well balanced with a superb, clean line of acidity and wonderful tension. Isabelle Raveneau remarked how well this vineyard copes with…

Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru is airy and weightless in feel. A wine that speaks in hushed tones, the Butteaux is marked by soaring aromatics, vertical lift and a decidedly ethereal personality. Crushed rocks, lime, white pepper and chalk give the Butteaux its striking upper register that is very nicely complemented by saline underpinnings…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussières 1er Cru displays heavy reduction on the nose that obscures the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, and quite animally in style but full of character, though the finish does not quite deliver the definition and vigor that I would have liked. Give it another two…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Good dark red. Darker and more medicinal than the village Chambolle, offering aromas of black cherry, mocha and menthol. Densely packed and fine-grained, with its flavors of black cherry, menthol, minerals and licorice showing very good verve considering the wine’s low acidity (3.1 grams per liter). But then the pH here is a reasonable 3.41….

Precious Clay: L’Eglise-Clinet 1929–2015 (Jul 2019)

The 2004 l’Eglise-Clinet is an outstanding wine for the vintage, where notes both from bottles and magnum have been uniformly impressive. It has a fragrant bouquet with copious red cherry, crushed strawberry, orange sorbet and violet aromas that you would think come from a warmer growing season. The palate is beautifully balanced with fine-grain tannin,…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Moderately saturated red-ruby. Aromas of dark cherry, plum, coffee, spices and underbrush. Supple, sweet and easygoing, with a deep spiciness and good definition to its slightly medicinal black fruit flavors. Can’t match the 2005 for sweetness or complexity but this has subtle depth and plenty of underlying structure. I pray for a cold summer every…