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2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Medium-deep red. Redcurrant, cedar and minerals on the nose, along with a cool minty aspect. Then sweet and supple in the mouth, with good flavor intensity and thrust but moderate nuance. Can’t match the 2000 or 2001 for volume but finishes with ripe tannins and good length.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Léoville Poyferré is a wine that I always enjoyed, though I have not tasted it for the last 10 years. The bouquet has mellowed in the interim, though it retains seductive, almost effervescent red fruit mixed with undergrowth, hung game, fresh mint and pine aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a menthol-tinged opening….

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(made via fermentation intégrale in a single new barrel and aging in the same barrique): Reticent, rather cool scents of black cherry and licorice; I might have picked this blind as Clos Vougeot. Then tactile and imploded but without any rough edges; quite penetrating and youthfully medicinal but with a sexy sweetness that carries the…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru offers attractive scents of red and black fruit, subtle notes of oyster shell and fish scales lurking in the background and imparting fine complexity. The palate is sumptuous on the entry, offering fleshy red fruit, real density and weight and a compelling, lightly spiced finish that displays cohesion and freshness….

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright ruby-red. Black fruits, licorice, tobacco and cedary oak on the nose. Dense and fine-grained, with a distinctly cool quality to the black fruit and floral flavors. Pliant in the middle palate but with cedar, floral and herbal notes providing very good lift. This rich, chewy wine boasts lovely depth of flavor and finishes with…

Vertical Tasting of Domaine de Chevalier Rouge (Apr 2013)

(a blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 5% petit verdot and 5% cabernet franc; 13% alcohol): Deep ruby. Blackcurrant, camphor and a peppery note on the nose, plus a hint of a green streak. Suave in texture but peppery and simple in the mouth, with a leafy, herbal quality and a general lack of…