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Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru is broad, creamy and ample, as wines from this premier cru site so often are. Apricot, wild flowers, mint, lemon confit and lightly honeyed notes all flesh out in a racy Chablis that is all about textural depth and richness. All the elements meld together effortlessly. I…

2010 Red Burgundy: Essays in Terroir (May 2014)

Comte Armand’s 2010 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux kicks off the tasting in grand style. What can I say? The 2010 is a great example of the year. Layers of generous fruit are buffered by underlying veins of acidity and minerality in a wine that is already virtually impossible to resist. This is a fabulous showing…

2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)

(bottled in April of 2012): Bright medium red. Expressive aromas of redcurrant, menthol, truffley earth and spicy oak. Supple, sweet and deep, with a wonderfully silky texture but also excellent inner-mouth tension and lift. Substantial tannins come up with air, giving this very serious wine plenty of structure for at least 10 to 15 years…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)

(65% cabernet sauvignon, 28% merlot, 3% cabernet franc and 4% petit verdot; 3.7 pH; 12.6% alcohol): Red with a pale rim. The fruity nose hints at macerated red cherries, bitter chocolate and dried herbs. Then big, fat and soft on the palate, with fresh, harmonious acidity providing adequate lift to the black cherry, chocolate and…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Branaire Ducru has a somewhat conservative bouquet with cedar and graphite scented black fruit, touches of brown spice emerging with time. It never quite clicks into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly drier tannin than its peers, yet well balanced and fresh, hints of sage and bay leaf infusing the black…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright, deep ruby. Superripe, brooding aromas of black cherry, bitter chocolate and licorice. Sweet, concentrated and fine-grained, with terrific depth to the plush cassis and coffee liqueur flavors. Serious dusty, fine tannins will not stand in the way of early approachability but this wine has the structure for a 20+-year life in bottle.