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A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Latour is a blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. It has quite a deep colour considering that it is now 30 years old with little maturation on its rim. I appreciate the nose here: quite dense at first and yet well-defined, plenty of fruit extant…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1988 Latour has a slightly more powerful nose than the Lafite-Rothschild, with hints of black olive, sage and sous-bois infusing the black fruit. But it doesn’t fully reach the complexity of the best vintages of Latour. The palate has a wonderful backbone and grip, with hints of cooked meat. It sedately shimmies into its…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2001 Vieux Château Certan has long been my preferred vintage compared to the millennial. This veers much more towards red fruit, hints of truffle and morels, and is more sensual than the 2000. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fresh and vivacious with a mineral core absent from the 2000. It is tensile…

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2000 Brane-Cantenac represents the only vintage that eschewed any vin de presse due to a meticulous selection. This has a gorgeous bouquet that blossoms in the glass: a mélange of red and black fruit vie for attention as an underlying mineralité lends more dimension that previous vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with finely sculpted…

Champagne: So Much More Than a Celebration Wine (Oct 2012)

A total turn on, the 2002 Extra-Brut Grand Cru Millesime is one of the great wines of this vintage. Exotic, ripe and totally flashy, the 2002 bursts from the glass with massive layers of fruit. Honey, spices, tangerine, nectarine, flowers and mint all come to life in this huge, vivid Champagne. Waves of rich, tropical…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)

Light yellow with a slow bead. Deeply perfumed nose displays waxy orchard and pit fruit scents, along with toasty lees, woodsmoke and wet stone. Weighty pear and yellow peach flavors are given a bitter edge by fruit skin and quinine qualities, picking up salty minerals on the back end. Finishes with firm grip and powerful…