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Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023 (Apr 2025)

The 2005 Giscours has far more concentration on the nose than the ’04: blackberry, raspberry, cedar and crushed flowers, with hints of licorice emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with good grip, boasting plush red fruit, desiccated orange peel and brown spices. This is not a subtle Giscours, but it gives a lot of…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Brane-Cantenac is fabulous. Effusive and explosive to the core, the 2005 possesses tons of energy and pedigree to burn. Crushed flowers, mint, gravel, red/purplish fruit, sage and mocha abound. In 2005 Brane-Cantenac is remarkably deep and vivid. It also comes across as needing a bit more time to soften. Readers will find one…

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2005 Brane-Cantenac, which was picked September 17 to October 10, has a suave, elegant bouquet of blackberry, cedar, gravel and tobacco scents, certainly showing more intensity and energy than any of the last five vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with fine and surprisingly supple tannins that are finally beginning to soften. I love the…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good bright red-ruby. Subdued but pure aromas of currant, dark chocolate and sexy oak. Moderately sweet, medium-bodied and vinous, with ripe acidity and a floral element providing mid-palate lift. Still a bit medicinal and unevolved, but this has the serious structure to develop slowly and well in bottle. Finishes long and firm.

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good medium, bright red. Restrained aromas of medicinal cherry, leather and licorice. Sweet and fairly deep, with brooding, slightly coarse flavors of dark raspberry and blueberry. Finishes with dusty, broad tannins and a slight greenness.

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Branaire Ducru has a cohesive bouquet with blackberry, boysenberry, iris flower and cedar scents plus a light touch of pencil shavings in the background. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine structure, good density (in an era when that was not always the case apropos this estate) and gentle grip…