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Lower Your Sails Again: Beychevelle 1905-2015 (Jan 2025)

The 2005 Beychevelle is improving in bottle. Quite intense on the nose, it offers slightly darker fruit than previous bottles, with cedar and a touch of espresso, though there is still a little rusticity. The palate is medium-bodied with quite a rich, slightly muscular entry, a smear of dark chocolate and a structured, grippy finish….

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Troplong Mondot is fabulous. It offers up a rush of dark red-toned fruit, crushed rocks, leather, menthol, cedar and blood orange. As always, Troplong Mondot is marked by a strong presence of Cabernet Sauvignon that seems to add brooding intensity, muscle and power. I tasted it three times. A bottle given a brief…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Troplong Mondot was bottled in July 2022 after the wines were pulled out of barrel in February as it was felt the wine had received sufficient oak ageing. I tasted two samples, one decanted earlier and one freshly poured. The latter showed more fruité: black cherries, violet, touches of pencil shavings and dried…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Brane-Cantenac is very pretty and nuanced. The richness of the year comes through, and yet there is a good bit of freshness and energy as well to balance things out nicely. Brane-Cantenac offers a fine expression of the year in a wine that will drink well with minimal cellaring. Time in the glass…

The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Brane-Cantenac has been on a roll of late, under the watchful eye of Henri Lurton. This latest bottled vintage is superb. The divine, pure blackberry and bilberry bouquet develops touches of graphite in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, silky-smooth texture and a superb bead of acidity. This is not…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Brane-Cantenac is a classy, elegant wine. The aromatics alone are so enticing. Crushed flowers, sweet pipe tobacco, mint, rose petal and cedar open first. The 74% Cabernet Sauvignon is a bit higher than in most years, which comes through in the wine’s aromatic and structural profile. The 2021 is quiet and understated. Élevage…