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2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Deep, dense red color. Vibrant aromas of aromas of cherry, wild herbs, fresh flowers and minerals. Energetic and sweet, showing no overripe qualities; offers a silky, suave texture and wonderfully pure red berry, fresh plum, kirsch and fig flavors. Those with an aversion to the funky, gamey character that can characterize Beaucastel in typical vintages…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Bourgogne Aligoté comes from vines planted in Sous Le Chemin and was picked a week after the Chardonnay. It has a lovely and intense bouquet with orange blossom, white flowers and broom. The well-balanced palate offers wild peach and a touch of passion fruit with fine acidity, pithy and waxy towards the long…

2003 Barolo: Ten Years Later (Jun 2014)

The 2003 Sperss has aged a little better than the Conteisa, which is not surprising considering its Serralunga origins and the firmer tannins that have helped maintain a sense of freshness. Smoke, iron, graphite and spices add nuance in a dark, powerful wine with plenty of intensity. My preference would be to drink the 2003…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

Good deep red. Deep, brooding aromas of plum, menthol, truffle, marzipan and chestnut; very Serralunga. Fat, sweet and full but youthfully inexpressive; impressively thick but monolithic at present. This expands dramatically toward the back, finishing with huge, broad tannins. A very tight wine in need of extended aging: I can see this being quite long-lived,…

Barbaresco’s Stellar 2011s (Oct 2014)

Crushed flowers, tobacco, sweet spices and red berries lift from the glass in the 2011 Barbaresco. Soft silky and accessible, the Barbaresco is already wonderfully open and expressive, as so many wines are in this vintage. Kirsch, hard candy and floral notes add nuance over time. The style is mid-weight and gracious, with gorgeous aromatic…

Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Good medium red. Pungent cranberry, pomegranate and cherry aromas accented by fresh herbs and cinnamon. Nicely concentrated and youthfully tight, with strong acidity and a firm tannic spine keeping the mid-palate fruit under wraps today. Finishes with enticing lingering perfume. Will this gain in flesh by the time it goes into bottle?