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2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

Inky ruby. Ripe, powerful boysenberry and blueberry aromas are deepened by musky tobacco and dark chocolate. Weighty dark berry flavors verge on thick; initially brooding but brightens with air, picking up an energetic, stony character. Red fruits build on a long, sappy finish. A serious style, and not for those who demand elegance.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Bright ruby-red. Roasted currant and black cherry scents complicated by sexy oak. At once chewy and silky in the mouth, with complex, fresh flavors of plum, redcurrant, vanilla, coffee, smoky oak and woodsy underbrush. Finishes sweet and long, with thoroughly ripe tannins. This was bottled in February of this year after 28 months in barrel;…

2014 Chianti Classico: Better Late Than Never (Oct 2016)

The 2012 Cepparello is just as compelling as it has always been. Sweet, ample and generous from the outset, the 2012 shows all of its pedigree, even at this early stage. Radiant fruit and exquisite aromatics make a strong opening statement as the wine fleshes out in the glass. Ample, creamy and super-expressive, the 2012…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Good bright red. Vibrant aromas of black cherry, smoke, leather and minerals, with a wild meaty nuance adding complexity. Juicy and firm, if a bit youthfully spiky today owing to its solid acidity. On the lean side for a wine from this domain, and just a tad rustic on the back.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

($1; 400) Bright ruby-red. Knockout nose combines mulberry, raspberry liqueur, toffee, iron and minerals. Silky and thick on entry, then extremely dense and backward in the middle palate, with superripe notes of liqueur, game and truffle. A remarkably impressive, rather wild Petrus in an almost late-harvest style. Finishes with big, thoroughly ripe tannins and gamey…

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 2000 Petrus was served blind as an extra in an already formidable line-up. Deep, inky in hue, it has an intense nose of black and red fruit laced with pencil shavings and black truffle, the latter more prominently featured vis-à-vis previous bottles. The palate is medium-bodied, one of the most youthful examples that I…