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The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2007)

Ruby-red. Smoky cherry, plum and blackcurrant on the nose, with suave cigar box, tobacco and anise nuances. A supple, sweet midweight, with stylish red and dark berry flavors underscored by graphite and cured tobacco. There’s ample concentration here to reward a few more years of aging but it’s drinking very well right now. Pretty impressive…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Good full red. Darker fruits on the nose, complicated by minerals, violet and sweet oak. Rich and silky but at the same time minerally and firm; boasts impressive volume and texture but comes across as almost weightless. Finishes tight and youthfully closed, with superb mineral energy and toothcoating tannins. Lovely already but this should really…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2006 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru, which would have been made by Sylvain Cathiard himself, has developed wonderfully in bottle. It has a floral bouquet with quite plush black fruit, crushed violets and an almost Morey-Saint-Denis-like style. The palate is structured, and to quibble, I observe a little dryness just beginning to creep in…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)

(75% cabernet sauvignon, 19% merlot, 4% petit verdot and 2% cabernet franc; 3.77 pH; 13% alcohol): Good full ruby-red with a pale rim. Aromas of cassis and aromatic herbs are complicated by strong nuances of truffle and minerals. Dense, juicy and suave, displaying very pure, persistent flavors of cassis, gunflint, cedar and sweet spices. This…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Branaire Ducru was picked October 1–14 and is slightly higher in alcohol than the 2000. It appears just a touch deeper in color than the previous vintage. The well-defined, cohesive bouquet of blackberry, raspberry, tea leaf and clove is less evolved than the 2000. The palate is medium-bodied with a firmer backbone and…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Ruby-red. Aromas of roasted plum, tobacco, chocolate and smoky oak. Suave and vinous, with lively acidity giving the wine excellent balance. Not especially powerful but a lovely, classic midweight.