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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2014 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, made by Thierry Brouin, has a typically leafy bouquet. There is something autumnal about the aromatics, and some red fruits are extant but certainly moving into their secondary phase. The palate is medium-bodied with an austere, slightly meaty opening. This is not a concentrated Lambrays by any means….

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Chambolle-Musigny Les Sentiers 1er Cru has an engaging, enticing, detailed bouquet of tart red cherry, red currant, crushed stone and subtle undergrowth/fern aromas that gather momentum with aeration. The palate is beautifully balanced, with integrated new oak that complements and enhances the substance of this outstanding Chambolle-Musigny. It just feels natural and self-assured…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

(bottled the day before my visit; vinified with 90% whole clusters and aged in 50% new oak): Dark red-ruby. Very ripe but sappy aromas of red cherry liqueur and smoky oak. Full, broad, dense and fine-grained, with its sweetness nicely restrained by savory minerality. Carrying a good bit of baby fat but this premier cru…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

Bright, dark red. Red raspberry and exotic spice aromas are accented by a peppery stem element. Juicier and tighter than the Chambolle Les Lavrottes, showing a more restrained sweetness owing to its pungent spice and herb qualities. But this very long, vibrant wine finishes with a touch of underbrush and superb rising perfume. Incidentally, Bernstein…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru has a very intense bouquet with layers of black cherries, boysenberry and crushed stone aromas, though it becomes more floral with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, and a fine bead of acidity. Backward but intense with a fresh but paradoxically introspective finish that suggests it will…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a generous and vivacious bouquet with copious blueberry and red cherry fruit, orange zest and kirsch aromas developing with aeration. More flamboyant than its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fleshy and ripe with a touch of viscosity towards the finish. Certainly one of the most lavish…