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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright, medium ruby-red. Aromas of black raspberry, smoked meat, licorice and herbs. Ripe and serious for a second wine, offering nicely concentrated, lively flavors of currant, dark raspberry, spices, herbs and licorice. Finishes with plenty of dusty tannins and very good grip and verve.

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

(300) Deep ruby-red. Brooding, multidimensional aromas and flavors of blackberry, minerals, flowers, spices, chocolate and musky earth. Silky and utterly spherical, yet with superb definition and lift carrying straight through to the finish. This titillates all the taste receptors of the palate. A wine of great purity and precision, finishing quite powerful, with firm but…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2005 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru, if that’s not good enough, was poured en magnum. It has a heavenly bouquet with intense red fruit: wild strawberry, morello cherry, freshly tilled loam and crushed stone. Crystalline. The palate is perfectly balanced with unerring structure and precision, perhaps in a larger format, more linear than expected, with beguiling…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Deep ruby-red. Superripe aromas of cherry, currant, tobacco and smoky, nutty oak, with traces of vanilla and sweet butter; showing less of the early treble notes of flowers and spices than usual for La Tache but they are lurking in the background. Then wonderfully supple, silky and sweet, conveying an impression of brooding extract; quite…

Domaine de la Romanée Conti: A Survey of the 2021s (Mar 2024)

The 2005 La Tâche Grand Cru is just starting to be approachable, although I would not begrudge anyone who might prefer to cellar it for a few more years. I am struck by the wine’s huge core of dark fruit and magnificent sense of proportion. Time in the glass brings out the classic range of…

South Australia, Victoria and a Bit Beyond (Sep 2022)

Deep violet. Highly perfumed, smoke-accented cherry and blackberry scents are complicated by suggestions of exotic spices, candied flowers and licorice. Supple and broad on the palate, offering vibrant black and blue fruit, spicecake, violet pastille and bacon flavors that become sweeter as the wine opens up. The floral note repeats emphatically on the strikingly long…