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Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Pontet-Canet is the outlier in the flight with its arresting exotic blueberry, cassis and mulberry scents. It is attractive, seductive even, yet it is cut from a totally different cloth to other wines in the flight of Pauillacs. The palate steers it back towards Bordeaux, albeit not all the way. Grainy tannins, mulberry…

Tuscany: New Releases from the Coast (Jul 2022)

The 2019 Sassicaia is restrained and also a bit reticent in its first impression. Rose petal, dried herbs, blood orange, mint, sweet pipe tobacco and cinnamon give the 2019 striking aromatic presence. The 2019 is a mid-weight, very classic feeling Sassicaia that is going to need a number of years to open. There’s good fruit…

The Riches and Richness of Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Dec 2019)

Limpid magenta. Intense, mineral-tinged aromas of ripe red fruits, candied lavender, baking spices and incense show sharp delineation and energetic lift. Palate-staining red and blue fruit preserve flavors are complemented by floral pastille and spicecake qualities that firm up slowly on the back half. Distinctly rich but fresh and structured as well, showing superb finishing…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Full red-ruby. Pure, subtly perfumed aromas of blackberry, spices and licorice. Dense but youthfully linear, showing lovely finesse of texture to its tight-grained flavors of dark fruits, spices and saline minerality lifted by violet. With its compact kernel of fruit, this is neither sweet nor easygoing today, but its precision and definition call to mind…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Full red-ruby. Knockout nose melds raspberry, flint, mocha and coffee; distinctly rocky. Big, rich and sweet, with very ripe red berry liqueur flavors framed by an edge of tannins and acids. Like the Echezeaux, this also shows some lower-toned earth and underbrush elements, but this one also has the ineffable mineral lift I crave. Almost…

2012 and 2011 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2014)

Glass-staining purple. Explosive aromas of dark berries, fresh violet and anise, with a hint of smokiness in the background. Sappy and incisive on the palate, offering deeply pitched, spice-tinged cassis and bitter cherry flavors accented by bitter herbs. Closes extremely long, with firm tannic grip and alluring sweetness, leaving a zesty mineral note behind. Showing…