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The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Bright medium red. Lovely ineffable perfume of red cherry, raspberry, minerals and flowers, plus a darker suggestion of blackberry. Boasts great intensity to its flavors of red and black fruits and flowers, with captivating minerality and perfectly integrated acidity giving the wine outstanding inner-mouth tension without any hardness. Firm, even, late-arriving tannins frame the fruit…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, which contains 15% whole bunches, has a wonderful bouquet with dark berry fruit mixed with Earl Grey and touches of undergrowth. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine delineation, cohesive with a compelling edginess on the finish that compels you back for another sip. Outstanding.

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru has an intriguing nose with kirsch and brown spices, perhaps more Rhône-like than Burgundy, yet with aeration it gradually reverts to what Pinot should be. Suffice to say, this seems mercurial although it settles after 10 to 15 minutes in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins. Fleshy,…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1962 La Mission Haut-Brion is a vintage that I have encountered twice before. As on one of those prior occasions, this time I also felt there was just a very faint touch of TCA. That aside, it does retain its tobacco/cigar humidor nose, and this example reveals a touch of garrigue. It’s quite savory…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Meursault Porusots 1er Cru is a wine that I remember as perplexing in barrel, and that is borne out in bottle. The powerful, rather heavy-handed bouquet has perhaps too much new oak vis-à-vis the fruit, and there are strong tropical scents here that are almost overwhelming. The palate is reduced on the entry…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(on its finings, with a higher level of CO2 due to the fact that its malolactic fermentation finished very late, in tank): A note of musky reduction to the cooler aromas of nectarine, crushed stone and hazelnut. Then surprisingly silky and suave but tight and high-pitched in the mouth, with its stone fruit flavors conveying…