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1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

1994 Mouton Rothschild: Sexy smoky, gingery oak, along with a hint of herbaceousness. Fruity and vinous, with good inner-mouth perfume, but the level of extract seems rather low for this wine. Finishes with slightly harsh tannins and some caramel oak. Lacks real precision and class. Not a strong performance for Mouton.

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Lively, complex, fresh aromas of tropical fruit, honey and spicy oak. Sweet and viscous in the middle palate; kept fresh by apple and pear notes and harmonious acidity. Very concentrated and deep. Very long on the aftertaste; has the sheer material to buffer its alcohol. Rieussec switched to later bottling with this vintage: 30 rather…

Finding Filhot: Filhot 1935-2015 (May 2019)

The 1990 Filhot has a light brioche and orange blossom-scented bouquet, a touch of lanolin developing with time in the glass. This is very understated considering the growing season’s usual exuberance. The palate offers scents of butterscotch and caramel, a hint of orange pith on the entry. This is balanced if simple for a 1990…

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 1994 Climens has a simple bouquet with quince, honey and a light chlorine scent. The palate is medium-bodied, balanced but simple, showing dryness on the finish. Drink soon. Tasted from a bottle from my own cellar, I feel that this is running out of steam.

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2016 Brane-Cantenac has a wonderful bouquet. Pure blackberry, cedar and graphite scents blossom in the glass with exquisite delineation and harmony. The palate is medium-bodied with sculpted tannins and a sense of symmetry that the estate had not seen before. Very focused and mineral-driven towards the finish, this was quite simply the best Brane-Cantenac…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2007 Cristal is pretty reticent in this tasting. Then again, it is sandwiched between two great vintages. It is the product of a freakishly early year and an August harvest, rare at the time but increasingly within normal parameters today. The 2007 is 58% Pinot Noir and 42% Chardonnay, which is to say a…