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Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Meursault Porusots 1er Cru is taut and focused on the nose, tight at first, but then aeration reveals some lovely walnut and smoky aromas, and good mineralité tucked in just behind. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite concentrated and tensile, although it does not quite deliver the…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(45 hectoliters per hectare; aging in 30% new oak): Bright, pale yellow. Tight, lively scents of soft citrus fruits, nectarine and hazelnut plus a note of oak spice. Quite dry and classic on the palate, with its stone fruit and spice flavors supported by a firm mineral spine. No easy sweetness here! I particularly liked…

Mugneret-Gibourg’s Clos Vougeot 1984 – 2015 (Oct 2019)

Good medium red with a faint amber edge. Deeper-pitched on the nose than the ’14, but with a lovely rose petal high note to lift its musky aromas of red cherry, raspberry and earth. Very rich, chewy, powerful wine with superb subtle sweetness to its sappy flavors of red fruits, orange zest, mocha, minerals, spices…

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

The domaine’s 2012 Clos-Vougeot is beautifully focused, pointed and pure. Here it is the wine’s energy that stands out most. The Clos-Vougeot is the least expressive of the estate’s Grand Crus, as one might reasonably expect. Cinnamon, cloves, new leather and crushed rocks all add complexity on a firm, tannic finish laced with elements of…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Moderately saturated medium red. Very ripe, slightly high-toned aromas and flavors of redcurrant, raspberry, tobacco, soy sauce and warm spices, with complementary sweet oak tones. Broad, dry and seamless; wonderfully fine-grained but a bit unforthcoming today flavor-wise. The longest of these 2012s to this point, finishing with serious ripe tannins and terrific verve.

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

A dark, powerful, brooding wine, the 2012 Echézeaux boasts stunning depth and concentration. This is an unusually big, rich wine for the domaine, yet all the elements are wonderfully balanced. Layers of dark, spiced fruit flow through to the resonant, hugely expressive finish. The abnormally low yields of the vintage are felt in the wine’s…