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2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(the crop was normal at 50 hectoliters per hectare; bottled last week): Bright, light yellow. Deep but precise aromas of lemon, orange and hazelnut, with a hint of reduction. Densely packed and seamless, with its serious thickness of texture leavened by a strong impression of acidity. Conveys a crystallized citrus zest character, with firm acidity…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Meursault Les Charmes 1er Cru is taut and linear, more reticent than the Clos de la Barre at the moment, yet it evolves in the glass and reveals a Perrières-like stoniness. The palate pivots around a silver bead of acidity with citrus peel and nectarine notes, demonstrating greater depth than its peers on…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(on its finings): Palish yellow. Aromas and flavors of ripe peach, lemon and smoky minerality, plus an element of vanillin oak. A wonderfully broad, sweet, seamless 2015 with surprising lift and no impression of undue weight. Not quite as smooth as the Genevrières but more explosive in the middle palate. Finishes wonderfully fresh and long,…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru has quite a bullish nose with blackberry, wild hedgerow, clove and autumn leaf aromas that stride out of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh line of acidity, touches of orange rind tincturing the red berry fruit. This gently builds in the mouth to a fairly intense red…

Domaine Duroché Latricières-Chambertin 1989-2022 (Aug 2025)

The 2017 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years. It is very pure and poised on the nose, the whole bunch (10% to 15%) imparting subtle tea and bay leaf scents. The palate is medium-bodied with exquisite balance, tart red fruit with a minerally, nuanced finish that keeps…

Grouse Club at Hunan, London, UK (Feb 2022)

Three fabulous Pomerols were in the starting blocks. We kicked off with a 2001 Certan-de-May, which showed a very slight cork taint. That’s life; take the hit and move on.