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Sicily: The Island Nation (Jun 2021)

The 2016 Cerasuolo di Vittoria Grotte Alte is darkly alluring yet also incredibly pretty, as crushed violets and sweet smoke are contrasted by hints of grilled citrus and blackberries. Its silky textures wash shades of black and purple-tinged fruits across a core of zesty acids, leaving minerals and a bitter twang of lemon peels. Round…

White-on-White: Porseleinberg 2010-2020 (Nov 2023)

The 2019 Porseleinberg saw 415mm of rain, slightly more than previous years and cool growing conditions so that volumes were higher and the harvest could be conducted at a more leisurely pace, based upon tasting grapes in the vineyard. Matured for 12 months in 90% foudres and 10% concrete eggs, this has a peppery and…

Growing Up ‘n Getting Wiser: South Africa in 2022 (Sep 2022)

The 2021 Treinspoor is Sadie’s Tinta Barocca that the man himself likens to Nebbiolo, also opining that it is a wine that needs considerable ageing. These vines were planted in 1974, and the blend includes 40% whole clusters. It has a complex, succinctly defined bouquet with melted tar and graphite infused dark berry fruit, a…

Growing Up ‘n Getting Wiser: South Africa in 2022 (Sep 2022)

The 2021 Soldaat, which includes 40% whole cluster, is markedly pale in colour, yet Sadie mentioned this wine actually contains a lot of tannin. It has a beguiling, very distinctive red cherry and redcurrant nose, a noticeable reduction (Sadie also mentioned that this Soldaat had been bottled with a lot of carbonic gas). The palate…

Growing Up ‘n Getting Wiser: South Africa in 2022 (Sep 2022)

The 2021 Skerpioen is the Chenin Blanc and Palomino blend grown on limestone soils close to the coast that is matured in foudres with 10-11 months on the lees. It has a well-defined bouquet with iodine and saline notes on the nose that is slightly more neutral in style compared to Sadie’s other whites. The…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep ruby, by far the darkest of these vintages. Knockout nose of great precision: cassis, black cherry, lead pencil, licorice, dried herbs and mint. Densely packed and extremely unevolved; a powerfully structured wine with uncanny precision and penetration. Finishes with powerful, firm tannins and exceptional mounting persistence. An infant, but a great Northern Medoc…