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South Africa New Releases: Don’t Deny Yourself (Nov 2019)

The 2017 Palladius is matured in a mixture of concrete and clay. It gradually unfurls with brioche, praline and honeysuckle aromas, wonderfully focused and precise. The well-balanced palate delivers orange zest and tangerine on the entry. The acidity is very well judged and there is real brightness and tension toward the finish. Is it the…

South Africa New Releases: Don’t Deny Yourself (Nov 2019)

The 2017 Columella has an outgoing, intense bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit mixed with sage, tobacco and thyme, that seems a little smudged initially but gains clarity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, plenty of red berry fruit, a generous sprinkling of white pepper and a hint of fennel….

2011 Vintage Ports (May 2014)

Bright, deep, saturated ruby. Liqueur-like ripeness to the deeply fruity aromas of kirsch, black raspberry and cassis. Thick, sweet and seamless, with a silky texture and great depth to its utterly primary dark berry and spice flavors. Wonderfully pure, intense young port with outstanding finishing sweetness, well-judged oakiness and big, ripe, noble tannins. Leaves behind…

2011 Vintage Ports (May 2014)

Bright ruby-red. Slightly high-toned aromas of blackberry, bitter chocolate, violet and licorice. Lush on entry, then densely packed and sweet in the middle, with fruit-driven flavors of kirsch, black raspberry and cassis nicely support by sexy oak tannins. Surprisingly dry and classic on the finish, with harmonious acidity giving the wine terrific balance.

White-on-White: Porseleinberg 2010-2020 (Nov 2023)

The 2010 Porseleinberg was matured in 65% foudres and 35% concrete eggs for 16 months. Callie Louw mentioned that he cleaned the new foudres with tartaric acid, and when he analyzed the wine, the readings showed that there might have been some residue. This is my second time tasting the maiden vintage. It has a…

The Best New Wines from South Africa (May 2013)

(100% shiraz): Good bright, dark red. Knockout nose combines black raspberry, mocha, game, coffee and flinty minerality; a real essence of syrah. Then much tighter in the mouth than the nose would suggest, showing a distinctly ungiving, even tart, quality to the raspberry, floral and saline flavors. Today the wine’s tannins are tough and a…