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The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Opaque ruby. Powerful cassis, cherry-cola and floral aromas are complemented by suggestions of licorice, vanilla and smoky minerals. Plush and deeply concentrated yet surprisingly lively as well. It offers plush, spice-laced cherry and dark berry preserve, vanilla and fruitcake flavors supported by a spine of juicy acidity. Rounded tannins frame the smoke-tinged finish, which lingers…

2023 Burgundy Supplement (Feb 2025)

The 2013 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru remains quite young, although it is decidedly delicate, pretty and understated in style. It has also aged exceptionally well thus far. Tangerine oil, orchard fruit, citrus peel and light tropical overtones build effortlessly through to the long, sustained close.

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Bright, pale yellow. Tight aromas of mirabelle, crushed herbs, licorice and powdered stone are complicated by a distinctive oyster shell quality and a hint of orange zest. Dense and creamy but juicy too, showing good cut and a light touch. Perhaps not squeaky-clean but the exotic orange zest and mineral flavors carry well on the…

The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)

An utterly mesmerizing wine, the 2011 Corton-Charlemagne conquers all of the senses with its grace and harmony. Lemon oil, white flowers, pears and crushed rocks are some of the many notes that are woven together in the glass. The 2011 is perfumed, sublime and drop-dead gorgeous from the very first taste. With time, though, the…

2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

(13.8% alcohol): Pale straw-yellow. Very reduced nose hints at very ripe stone fruits, ginger, smoke and petrol. Round, sweet and quite ripe but a bit warm, and not currently showing the lift or grip of classic Corton-Charlemagne. This wine is lower in acidity than the 2012 version and comes across as rather outsized. I was…

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2005)

Medium ruby. Rich, roasted aroma of cherry and plums, with exotic Indian spices and sweet, dusty cocoa powder. Juicy and plump in the mouth, displaying creme de mure, singed plum, cherry and tangy licorice, along with black pepper and bacon fat accents. Spicy, strongly extracted berry and chocolate notes mark the long, intense finish, which…