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Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982 (Apr 2024)

The 1982 Lafite-Rothschild was a bottle with impeccable provenance, having been stored at the renowned La Tour d’Argent restaurant for its entire lifetime before being auctioned. Backward and youthful on the nose, this is intense with black fruit infused with cedar and graphite, gaining delineation with time yet still warning that it’s being broached too…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

Tasted from magnum, the 2013 Cristal Rosé is ravishing. Dense, creamy and powerful, the 2013 captures all the qualities of the vintage, specifically the interplay of rich fruit from the warm summer and cooler inflections from a year that started late and ended late with a rare October harvest. Today, the 2013 is deep and…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Giscours (Jan 2012)

(a blend of 71% cabernet sauvignon and 29% merlot): Fully saturated ruby-purple with inky highlights. Captivating nose of cassis, violet, gunflint and aromatic herbs; this struck me as being very dominated by its cabernet component. Fresh, rich and dense, with palate-staining flavors of dark berries, coffee and cocoa complicated by ink and graphite. Very complex…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Giscours put in a strange showing that did not correlate to previous showing with a somewhat lactic, chocolate-tinged nose that bore traits of a Cabernet from say, Coonawarra. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, quite toasty with the oak more marked than its peers. I would like to re-examine this. Tasted blind…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Cassis, blackberry and licorice pastille on the nose. Then sweet, juicy and energetic in the mouth, with complex flavors of plum, currant, cedar, tobacco and spices along with a gamey nuance. Firmly built but not hard. Finishes with serious but fine-grained tannins and a note of licorice. Still a bit strict today, this…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Dullish red color. Liqueur-like raspberry, coffee, licorice, herbs and exotic woodsmoke on the nose. Supple and sweet, with a slightly intrusive pepper-and-herb quality that’s not yet in harmony with the wine’s slightly exotic character. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins that spread out to coat the palate.