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The Grand Vin of the North: San Leonardo (Jul 2020)

The 2015 San Leonardo is a classic in the making. The bouquet is wonderfully perfumed with peppery florals, mixing tart cherry and blueberry with white smoke, hints of graphite and shaved cedar. Silky textures race across a core of juicy acids and minerals, making for a ripe yet cool-toned and pleasurably tactile expression. Youthful tannins…

The Grand Vin of the North: San Leonardo (Jul 2020)

The 2015 San Leonardo is a classic in the making. The bouquet is wonderfully perfumed with peppery florals, mixing tart cherry and blueberry with white smoke, hints of graphite and shaved cedar. Silky textures race across a core of juicy acids and minerals, making for a ripe yet cool-toned and pleasurably tactile expression. Youthful tannins…

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 2007 Climens has a lighter nose than other vintages, very well defined, airy but gaining intensity with time in the glass. Yellow plum, hints of jasmine emerge with time. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and minerally, lively with a tensile, sapid finish that keeps you coming…

The 2010 Red Burgundies (Feb 2012)

The 2010 Chambolle-Musigny shows terrific energy and class. There is lovely freshness and vibrancy in the aromas and flavors, with an underpinning of minerality that gives the wine its focus and sense of direction. Bright floral notes add lift on the finish.

2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)

Bright, deep red. Sappy aromas of raspberry, spices and minerals. Sweet, supple and lush, offering excellent volume for village wine. The wine’s sappy quality gives it inner-mouth energy and early deliciousness. Christophe Roumier expressed the opinion in November that the 2012s don’t have enough tannins to really shut down in the bottle; on the other…

Setting Sail – Malartic-Lagravière 1916 – 2013 (Apr 2019)

The 2005 Malartic-Lagravière comprises a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. It has a rather sultry nose that seems sullen compared to more recent vintages like the 2010 or 2012, blackberry and briary, a touch of cedar, but just missing that necessary detail and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with…