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Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2005 Brane-Cantenac is a renowned vintage. When Henri Lurton asked his father if he had witnessed a similar one, he replied “1928”…when he was just two years old! Brane-Cantenac stepped up a level with this vintage, dialling up fruit intensity a little without compromising delineation and focus. With blackberry, tobacco and touches of cedar…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Léoville Barton is one of the few Saint-Julien wines to show a bit of sur-maturité on the nose. Hints of tinned prune infuse the black cherry fruit. The palate is ripe, very sweet and plush in style. It has a note of peppermint toward the finish that is rather distracting and otiose. Given…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Langoa-Barton is a total charmer, just as it was from barrel. Succulent red cherry fruit, cedar, sweet pipe tobacco and crushed flowers give this radiant, mid-weight Saint-Julien gorgeous aromatic presence. There’s good energy to keep things in balance. I imagine the 2020 will drink well pretty much right out of the gate. It…

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Langoa Barton has a wonderful, precise, mineral-driven bouquet with subtle marine scents (oyster shell and Crustacea) that emerge with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins. Stylistically, it's not unlike the Léoville Barton, though this has more control and tension toward the persuasive finish. Glorious—one of the finest releases in recent years…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Giscours was tasted alongside the 2019 for comparison. This is more extravagant on the nose, delivering slightly more red fruit, black pepper and touches of graphite. This has opened since I last tasted it. The palate is medium-bodied with bold tannins, very smooth and more sensual than the 2019, and more flamboyant, though…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Brane-Cantenac was bottled towards the end of July, a little later than usual, partly due to the logistics. It takes time to open in the glass, offering gorgeous blackberry, pencil box and tobacco scents that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and outstanding delineation. Very cohesive, this…