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Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023 (Apr 2025)

The 1998 Giscours is another level up from the ’97, delivering an attractive nose of blackberry and wild strawberry fruit, orange rind, leather and cedar. This is a step back to the classic Giscours of old. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip, maybe a little foursquare and “correct,” but displaying superior balance and a…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 14 at a low yield of 30hl/ha. The nose might be even better than the 2019 with blackberry, black truffle, pencil shavings and a touch of sous-bois. The aromatics are heavenly, perhaps even more complex than the 2016. The palate is medium-bodied with a satin-textured entry…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

Deceptively alluring a few months after bottling, the 2017 Petrus is attractive and nuanced, and yet I get the impression it is going through a rather awkward stage. Floral and blood orange overtones add freshness and inner perfume to a Petrus that will age more on finesse than power. Olivier Berrouet opted for longer skin…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Pétrus, as usual, is a wine that bides its time and I left my glass for five minutes before broaching. Bottled at the beginning of August 2019 it gradually unfurls with a mixture of red and black fruit, those pressed irises that I remarked upon out of barrel, now a hint of steaming…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Pétrus is a wine of pure and total sensuality. Silky, creamy tannins wrap around a core of dark red and black fruit. A wine with explosive depth but no hard edges and mind-blowing balance, the 2020 is so alluring, even in the early going. Time in the glass brings out lifted floral top…

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Petrus has a pure, delineated and focused bouquet with black cherries, rose petal and crushed stone scents. The palate is medium-bodied and mineral-driven, with finely chiseled tannins and a sapid, marine-influenced finish that retains superb tension. Quite regal. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.