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2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(production was down 80% of normal; just one barrel of this wine earmarked for the U.S. market): Subdued aromas of menthol and minerals. Stone fruit and menthol flavors convey an attractive creaminess. Good, serious Bourgogne with structure and length, not to mention character.

Champagne: 2017 New Releases (Dec 2017)

Krug’s 2004 Vintage is absolutely mesmerizing. Layers of bright, chiseled fruit open up effortlessly as the wine fleshes out with time in the glass. Persistent and beautifully focused, with a translucent sense of energy, the 2004 captures all the best qualities of the year. Moreover, the 2004 is clearly superior to the consistently underwhelming 2002…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2004 Vintage is a gorgeous Champagne that is just beginning to enter its first plateau of maturity. Dried flowers, brioche, mint, marzipan, tangerine peel and spice lend notable nuance throughout. A hint of reduction adds intrigue. As always, the 2004 is a linear, focused Champagne endowed with terrific energy. It is impeccably done. There’s…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Meyney was tasted from two bottles, which seem to be oxidized in both examples. The palate is chewy on the entry with tough tannins and masses of concentration at the expense of finesse. Dense, muscular, unyielding and uncompromising, this wine will go two ways: either a classic or the tannins will ultimately dominate….

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(66% cabernet sauvignon, 28% merlot and 6% petit verdot): Deep opaque ruby. Intensely fruity, fragrant aromas of blackcurrant and blueberry pie complicated by hints of cinnamon and bay leaf. Then minerally and clean on the palate, with pure flavors similar to the aromas. The aromatically persistent finish is slightly chewy due to youthfully backward but…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Gloria has a very fresh and well-defined bouquet with blackberry, sous-bois and just a touch of tobacco/autumn bonfire. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, gentle grip with a cedar and truffle tinged finish that is focused, if not the more persistent Saint-Julien in the pack. Very fine….