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Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a beautifully defined bouquet of extremely pure brambly red fruit, and the oak is very well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine structure and well-judged acidity. Though this is initially backward on the finish, it opens nicely in the glass. Whether it is long-term is…

What Nectar!! Suduiraut 1899-2015 (March 2019)

The 2009 Suduiraut, aged in 55% new oak, is surprisingly closed at first but it soon awakens with aeration and begins revving its motor. It has a divine bouquet with honey, chamomile, yellow flowers and nectarine, building layer upon layer. The palate is medium-bodied with a viscous opening, a beautiful razor-sharp line of acidity that…

Bols Blue to Bordeaux: Barde-Haut, Clos l’Église & Poesia (Jun 2022)

The 2010 Clos l’Eglise is more closed and introverted on the nose compared to the previous vintage, but affording it 15-20 minutes in the glass, it reveals beguiling redcurrant, raspberry coulis, rose petal and crushed stone aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a little more weight than the 2009. This is vibrant and surprisingly spicy,…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good bright, deep red. Crystallized black raspberry, cherry, bitter chocolate and graphite minerality on the expressive nose. Dense, sweet and very deep, with hugely rich flavors of red and darker berries, espresso and bitter chocolate. As creamy as this is, there’s no shortage of energy or underlying tannic support. Very long and lush on the…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

Bright, dark ruby. Sexy aromas of tangy dark berries, Oriental spices and cocoa powder. Initially creamy in the mouth, with flavors of blackberry, coffee and cocoa, then turns dry and tannic on the long finish. This boasts plenty of fruit and verve, and time may help it come around, but I can’t help but wonder…

Cellar Favorite: 1986 Grand-Puy-Lacoste (Feb 2022)

You cannot get more “trad claret” that the 1986 Grand-Puy-Lacoste. From a Pauillac that takes time to reach its drinking plateau and a notorious vintage hellbent on testing the most patient Bordeaux-lover, after 35-years, it is finally waking up the idea that its raison d’être is to give us pleasure. This bottle was poured by…