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2008 Brunello di Montalcino: A Consumer’s Vintage (Sep 2013)

In a vintage where so many wines already appear tired, Gaja’s 2008 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina jumps from the glass with vibrant aromas and flavors. Violets, black cherries, tobacco, licorice and menthol all appear later, adding further shades of complexity. The tannins are firm yet beautifully integrated. Pieve Santa Restituta fans know than Rennina can…

Brunello di Montalcino 2008 and 2007 Riserva (Jul 2013)

Bright dark red-ruby. Musky aromas of dark cherry, dried herbs and iron pick up a sweet balsamic element with aeration. Supple and sweet, with flavors of dark cherry, minerals and graphite, along with a strong saline quality that lingers nicely on the brightly acidic finish. This is still a baby but holds considerable potential. Rennina…

Castello dei Rampolla d’Alceo – A Complete Retrospective 1996-2011 (Dec 2013)

Dark raspberries, cloves, menthol and crushed rocks wrap around the palate in the 2007 d’Alceo. Rich, voluptuous and sexy, the 2007 is very much a product of a vintage that yielded a crop of resonant, generous wines. The ripe, silky tannins will make the 2007 accessible relatively early, but it also has more than enough…

Tuscany Part 1: Chianti, Vino Nobile and Supertuscans (Jul 2012)

(75% cabernet sauvignon and 25% petit verdot; 14.5% alcohol): Deep purple-ruby. Knockout nose combines blackcurrant, violet, coffee, menthol, tar and graphite. The palate offers an uncanny combination of sweetness and penetrating power, with brisk acidity framing and lifting the very rich flavors of black fruits, minerals and spices. The very long, soft, supple finish conveys…

Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

(includes 20% rose; these are Fenocchio’s oldest vines but his Villero bottling is not typically an outsized wine): Good full medium red. Aromas of candied raspberry, violet and flinty minerality. Juicy and tightly wound but with insidious sweetness to its youthful red fruit flavors. Wonderfully fine-grained, perfumed wine with firm but harmonious tannic spine and…

Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Good dark red. Distinctly darker on the nose than the Villero, offering scents of medicinal black fruits and licorice. Juicy, tightly wound and youthfully imploded, showing limited fruit and personality today. Much more tannic, too: does this have the mid-palate fruit to evolve gracefully? This may be in an awkward post-bottling stage today.