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Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2004 Brane-Cantenac is a delightful wine for the vintage and, as I wrote before, far superior to the previous one. Cropped at 59.4 hl/ha, this was one of the largest yields in living memory, refuting the idea that low yields equal better quality. The nose is very well defined with blackberry, raspberry and tobacco…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Château was not tasted at the domaine, but at a private La Paulée, where the owner Louis Ng poured this wine. I include it here for convenience. It has a bright red cherry and crushed strawberry nose laced with orange zest that leaps from the glass. The palate is very…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Lafleur-Gazin is soft, open-knit and quite gracious. This is an especially lifted, perfumed Pomerol. Tobacco, cedar, dried flowers, mint and crushed red berries are all laced together in a silky, approachable, mid-weight Pomerol that will drink well upon release given its superb balance and sense of harmony.

The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Lafleur-Gazin has improved since its rather middling showing out of barrel. It offers ripe red cherry, kirsch and violets on the nose, the floral element becoming more intense with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded, supple tannin, and denser compared to recent vintages, displaying spicebox and a touch of white pepper toward…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 d’Angludet has a very open, fleshy, red berry nose that is missing some complexity and feels a little monochromatic compared to its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins, fleshy but undemanding for a Margaux. This showed much better 12 months ago, so I will leave a question mark instead of a…