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A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Les Ormes de Pez has an impressive bouquet with blackberry, raspberry and crushed violet/iris aromas that unfold in the glass and eventually attain impressive vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, plenty of sappy black fruit, an engaging sense of energy with a brisk, delineated finish that is nicely focused. It just…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

Glass-staining inky-purple. Sassafras, Oriental spices and licorice on the nose, then sweet spicy plums, tamarind, prune and a distinct salty element on the palate. Finishes with good breadth and fine, building tannins that leave the mouth a little dry.

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1995 Grand Puy Lacoste has one of the better aromatics with ample red berry fruit, black truffle, cigar box and light earthy scents. Fine complexity and vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple opening, and the tannins are malleable after 30 years as white pepper and sage infuse red and black fruit. Just…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2011 Lynch-Bages has a well-defined nose with tightly-wound black fruit laced with mint and graphite. This certainly needs time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, fleshy tannins. It’s open and generous with black cherries, wild strawberries and touches of orange rind. There’s good substance, and it’s fleshy on the finish. The…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Good bright ruby. Dark aromas of cassis, licorice, violet and vanilla. Penetrating and well-delineated, showing a light touch to its intense if slightly lean dark fruit and spice flavors. Finishes with very good grip and length, but a bit tart for me. A wine of very good but not outstanding concentration.

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Lafaurie-Peyraguey, which just predates Silvio Denz’s ownership, has an attractive nose of dried honey, praline and walnut, displaying good intensity though not amazingly complex. The palate is well balanced with a viscous opening, fine acidity and a touch of orange peel and spicebox toward the finish. Elegant and refined, but it needs a…