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2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Pale, bright yellow. Classic scents of pear, menthol, mint and dusty stone. Juicy, intense, very youthful wine with dusty, savory minerality currently dominating its soft citrus and white peach flavors. Still a bit tart and disjointed on the back end, and quite closed in the context of this collection. This wine was racked last December…

2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)

Bright medium red. Pure but reticent aromas of redcurrant and dried flowers. Densely packed and broad but youthfully closed and tight today, showing little in the way of easy sweetness. Plenty of dimension here but not yet filled in. Finishes long and fine. All in reserve today.

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

The 2012 Bourgogne is quite lovely. Extroverted and dense at this level, with gorgeous red berry character and plenty of nuance, the 2012 is translucent, deep and beautifully layered throughout. This is a wonderfully detailed Bourgogne to drink now and over the next few years.

2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Medium red. Red fruits, violet, licorice and herbs on the nose. Fat and sweet in the middle, with enticing cherry and raspberry flavors complicated by chocolate and truffle. Not quite as sharply defined today as the Caillerets or Ch a teau des Ducs. Turns more serious on the back end, finishing broad and classically dry,…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Meursault Les Clous has a tightly wound bouquet with light resinous, waxy aromas, a touch of white tea emerging almost reluctantly. The palate is well balanced with a clever reduction at play, though it does miss some tension and complexity on the finish. Probably one for short-term consumption.

Dive In: Cantenac Brown 1978-2018 (Oct 2022)

The 2004 Cantenac Brown is a wine that, strangely, I only ever tasted en primeur. The nose is leafy and lacking a bit of fruit, rustic compared to later vintages but not unattractive. The palate is matured with fleshy tannins, low acidity, sous-bois and tobacco defining a rather austere but pleasant finish. One for those…