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Piedmont: Beyond the Usual Suspects (Mar 2020)

The 2018 Langhe Nebbiolo emerges from a parcel in Sinio. Dark fruit, spice, earthy notes and a good bit of tannin give the Vajra's Langhe Nebbiolo a decidedly brooding, powerful feel and quite a bit more seriousness than is typical at this level. Sweet red berry fruit, mint and spice add freshness alongside bright acidity…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Berliquet has quite a high-toned bouquet that gradually gains more composure with aeration, the cedar- and mint-infused red fruit developing subtle tertiary aromas with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with firm but fine-boned tannins. This leans toward the drier and more classically styled Saint-Émilion, and it pulls it off well. Very promising. Tasted…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

A blast of dark cherry, chocolate, leather, espresso, smoke and spice hits the palate in the 2016 Berliquet. Powerful in both its fruit and tannin impact, the 2016 packs a serious punch. Torrefaction notes from the oak are especially dominant today. This is a decidedly potent, brooding Berliquet. It will be interesting to see what…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Good full purple-tinged ruby. Spicy red cherry, cedar, tar, ash and incense on the nose, complicated by a hint of coffee reduction. Then more restrained and refined in the mouth, with terrific depth and freshness to the smoky blackberry, dark plum and mineral flavors. Sound acids give this fleshy wine admirable clarity and cut on…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Good ruby-red. Superripe aromas of plum, dark chocolate and menthol. Dense and fine-grained, with good energy to its dark fruit, cinder and woodsmoke flavors. Very glossy in a 2009 way. Finishes rich and ripe, with substantial dusty tannins.

Moving On: Lafon-Rochet 1955-2017 (Jun 2023)

The 2009 Lafon-Rochet has a splendid bouquet with dark cherries, iodine, violet and iris flower, certainly the most precocious Lafon-Rochet on the nose thus far. The palate is medium-bodied with very good concentration, rounded in texture and counterbalanced with a fine bead of acidity. Layers of red fruit mixed with spice and cedar demonstrate acceptable…