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The Picardy Third: 2016 DRC In Bottle (Feb 2019)

The 2016 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru was picked on September 25 at 24hL/ha. As usual, I allowed it five or six minutes to open in the glass. It is a very subtle Romanée-Conti, more discreet than the 2016 La Tâche, but then you become entranced by its spellbinding purity and grace. It gradually builds aromatically, augmenting…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright red-ruby. A touch of reduction to the spectacularly complex aromas of black raspberry, mocha, game bird, earth and violet. Thick and sweet but utterly primary and barely hinting at the complexity to come. And yet this amazingly suave, silky wine already shows outstanding focus and spine, not to mention uncanny depth. Fleshier in the…

Fermented Grape Juice: Romanée-Conti 1953-2005 (Apr 2019)

The 2002 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru was picked on September 21 at 25hl/ha. It is a very fine wine, if not belonging to the very highest echelon of Romanée-Conti like the 1999 or 2005. Appearance-wise, it has a little more degradation on the rim than expected. It feels uncompromising and forthright on the nose and I…

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

Good deep red. Reticent aromas of plum, mocha and earth; currently in a shell and not showing the treble notes of La Tache. Then silky and thick but very closed, even inscrutable. Comes across as less sweet and less vibrant today than La Tache, but this is chewy, voluminous and quite powerful, with very good…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

(est. 2,500-$2,900) Good deep red. Less expressive but still utterly sexy nose offers plum, raspberry, flowers, smoke and earth. Hints at its superb volume but this is quite closed and tightly knit today, and much less expressive and sweet than La Tache. But this superconcentrated wine seemed to gain sweetness with aeration, showing an increasingly…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru sports a limpid ruby color. It is quintessential "RC" on the nose, which features crystalline scents of wild strawberry and cranberry fruit, crushed limestone, oyster shell and pressed rose petal. With aeration there is even a suggestion of crushed flint. The palate is medium-bodied with super-fine tannins that frame the…