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Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Brane-Cantenac was bottled towards the end of July, a little later than usual, partly due to the logistics. It takes time to open in the glass, offering gorgeous blackberry, pencil box and tobacco scents that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and outstanding delineation. Very cohesive, this…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Brane-Cantenac was picked September 14–28 and includes 13% vin de presse. It has exactly the same blend as last year since Henri Lurton and his team did not limit the Grand Vin to the 30-hectare plateau, a similar approach to Pichon-Baron when they reorganized their own vineyard. I allowed my sample an hour…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Gruaud Larose has a sophisticated bouquet with blackberry, minerals, raspberry coulis and cedar aromas that waft generously from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, crisp and focused with impressive density in the mouth. It is grippy and assertive; clearly a Saint Julien predesigned for long-term ageing, with a precise…

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 Grand Puy Lacoste is terrific. Graphite, smoke, tobacco and licorice burst onto the palate, followed by layers of dark, inviting fruit. Supremely classy from start to finish, the 2013 impresses for its energy, balance and pure, mineral-driven cut. The 2013 is by no means a huge wine, but it is super-polished to the…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Grand-Puy-Lacoste has a slightly herbaceous, tertiary nose, though there is freshness here and delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with assertive tannins, but it feels a bit forced, and there is some discombobulating greenness on the finish that jars on the aftertaste. This is one of my favorite estates in Pauillac, but this seems…