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2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

Dramatic, rich and imposing, the 2021 Canon is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage. Sculpted red purplish fruit, rose petal, lavender, sage and crushed rocks all race out of the glass. A heady, vertical wine, Canon is endowed with tremendous concentration and class. The aromatics alone are beguiling, but it…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Canon was picked September 16 to October 6 and matured in 50% new oak for a planned 16–18 months. Around 70% of the vineyard produced the normal yield, which underwent a 50% deselection, yet it still yielded 40hL/ha because the vines did not suffer stress. After mildew, any bunches that showed damage on…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Canon shows just how magical this site is. Vertical and explosive in feel, with tons of pure power, it impresses with its intensity, drive and super-classic profile. Bright saline notes and vibrant tannins give the 2021 a feeling of energy that only gains momentum with time in the glass. It’s not an easy…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Canon has a clean and precise bouquet. Redcurrant, cranberry and wild strawberry scents gradually emerge, perhaps a little more tertiary than previous vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins—a strict Canon, quite saline with just a hint of licorice coming through toward the finish. Although it does not reach the imperial heights…

2012 and 2011 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2014)

Glass-staining purple. Explosive aromas of dark berries, fresh violet and anise, with a hint of smokiness in the background. Sappy and incisive on the palate, offering deeply pitched, spice-tinged cassis and bitter cherry flavors accented by bitter herbs. Closes extremely long, with firm tannic grip and alluring sweetness, leaving a zesty mineral note behind. Showing…

Cellar Favorite: 2002 & 2004 Dom Pérignon (Dec 2022)

I remember the first time I tasted the 2002 Dom Pérignon with then-Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy at Hautvillers. It was the upcoming release at the time. As was his custom, Geoffroy served the 2002 in a flight that included a number of previous releases. The bouquet was immediately stunning for its audacity. I had…