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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Red-ruby. Ripe aromas of dark chocolate, minerals and earth. Sweet and plummy, with a silky texture and lovely depth of flavor. Finishes with fine-grained tannins that spread out to coat the palate.

2010 and 2009 White Burgundies (Sep 2011)

Full bright yellow. Ripe aromas of lemon, peach, orange oil, jasmine, spices and dusty herbs. A sexy, sweet fruit bomb in the mouth; full and rich if a bit unrefined, finishing with a tactile phenolic quality. Already satisfying but should be better for a year of patience.

The 2009 White Burgundies (Aug 2011)

The 2009 Meursault Les Tessons is another delicious wine with expressive fruit and an open, accessible personality. I like the juiciness here, but the Tessons doesn’t seem to quite have the complexity or character of the finest wines here, at least not today. Ideally, it needs to be enjoyed over the next few years.

Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 1982 La Conseillante was the first bona fide success after a long period languishing in the doldrums and the good news is that even after 36 years, this Pomerol continues to give immense pleasure. The aromatics embrace primary and secondary aromas. You can still feel the plushness of fruit that the warm vintage bestowed…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Medium red with an amber rim. Exotic aromas of plum, cherry, roast coffee, tobacco leaf and woodsmoke. Sweet, silky and suave, with lovely inner-mouth perfume. More subtle and sophisticated than most right-bank ’82s, with solid underlying structure. Finishes firmly tannic, with sneaky persistence. Classy juice, for drinking over the next 10 to 12 years.

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 1982 La Conseillante has always been one of my favorite Pomerols in this vintage, and this bottle suggests there is no way it will relinquish that position. Interestingly, it is rather muted for the first five or ten minutes. Then, the aromatics flower with exquisite red fruit, mulberry, leather and black truffle. A little…