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Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)

The 2009 Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles is utterly seamless. As inviting as the Chevalier is today, it is also very, very young and years away from offering its finest drinking. White flowers, pears and slate inform the taut, energetic finish. The personality of the vintage comes through, but there is more than enough buffering acidity to…

2010 and 2009 White Burgundies (Sep 2011)

Pale straw-yellow color. Utterly captivating nose combines white plum, anisette, crushed stone, medicinal herbs, fresh hazelnut, almond, marzipan and white pepper. Powerful, dense and seamless, with terrific fruit intensity and violet lift. Beautifully balanced, suave, rich Chevalier-Montrachet with with a very long, mounting finish. Lardiere prefers this wine to the 2008 and believes it will…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Chaignots 1er Cru has a very well defined, floral bouquet of seductive, elegant red cherry and crushed strawberry aromas, a level up from the Village Cru. The pure, poised palate is medium-bodied, with fine-grained tannin and a light spicy note toward the elegant finish. It reminds me of Mugneret-Gibourg, which…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(production was down 80% of normal; just one barrel of this wine earmarked for the U.S. market): Subdued aromas of menthol and minerals. Stone fruit and menthol flavors convey an attractive creaminess. Good, serious Bourgogne with structure and length, not to mention character.

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(from vines at the top of the slope): Pale straw-yellow. Musky, expressive aromas and flavors of apple and spices lifted by a mineral topnote. Plush and sweet in the mouth, conveying an impression of high-altitude energy if not particularly elevated acidity. Finishes spicy and slightly phenolic, with lingering fruit and mineral flavors enlivened by a…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1986 Cos d’Estournel replicates the performance from my 30-year on tasting that I conducted a few months back. The bouquet is attractive with mint and juniper berries that grab the attention of the olfactory senses, later accompanied by liquorice and graphite. The palate is understated on the entry but then builds in the mouth…