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The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Saturated ruby-red. Subdued but wonderfully pure nose hints at black cherry, graphite, tobacco, licorice, black olive and crushed stone. Lush, sweet and deep, with terrific energy and early sex appeal to the dark berry, spice and vanilla flavors. The sweetness builds on the very long aftertaste, where the solid tannins are in perfect harmony with…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 2008 Latour has a fragrant and floral bouquet with blueberry and blackberry fruit, violet and pressed iris petals, almost Margaux-like in style. The palate is medium-bodied with touches of brown spice on the entry. There’s a good definition here. Graphite notes appear toward a finish that tapers a little, giving away that it comes…

Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2019 New Releases (Apr 2019)

The 2008 Latour is dark, brooding and virile, with huge tannins that convey an impression of gravitas. Grilled herbs, leather, sweet pipe tobacco, iron and cedar add to the wine’s distinctive aromatic complexity. There is plenty of density and richness, but the color and slightly advanced flavor profile are a bit out of character. Ideally,…

Chablis: 2014 & 2013 (Aug 2015)

Pale straw-yellow. Soil-driven aromas of flint and baked bread; not a fruity style but not exotic either. Rich and sweet in the mouth, with ripe peach and earth flavors coming across as a bit aggressive following the 2014s here. Has the texture to drink young, but finishes slightly spiky.

2013 Chablis: Living on the Edge (Aug 2014)

A wine of structure, depth and gravitas, the 2013 Chablis Vaillons is endowed with serious intensity and minerality. The flavors are remarkably transparent and translucent in this striking, chiseled Chablis. There is plenty to look forward to here. This warm, sunny site is one of the first vineyards Fèvre harvests, along with Vaudesir.

Focus on the Languedoc (Jul 2000)

From a sample bottled yesterday: Bright, saturated ruby-red. Subtly perfumed aromas of redcurrant, leather, and iron. Dense, sweet and thick, with a remarkably chewy texture. Tannins spread out horizontally on the palate. Very long but a bit squashed by the bottling. From a sample bottled a month prior to my visit: Good deep red. More…