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The Cat’s Whiskers: Bordeaux 1961 (Oct 2019)

The 1961 Latour is served blind against the Palmer and it comes off second best on this occasion. But that should not take anything away from a quite stupendous Pauillac. Intense black fruit laced with graphite and crushed stone, it is deeply impressive but perhaps lacks a warm personality compared to the Margaux. The palate…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full red, with a hint of amber; I’ve had bottles of this that are still ruby. Ineffable aromas of game, smoky oak, herbs and vanilla, with a distinctly wild quality. Extremely powerful and structured, with bracing acidity giving it great grip and buns of steel. Still very tight and young, but less thick than the…

Vinous Table: L’Ardente, Washington, D.C., United States (Jun 2025)

The 2000 Château Margaux is one of the standouts of the millennial year. This bottle is consistent with the example two years ago, with tightly coiled black fruit, pencil box and violet scents, perhaps the floral element more expressive this time around. The palate has marvellous balance, real weight and density that is atypical for…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full ruby-red. Penetrating, highly perfumed aromas of sappy dark berries, violet and minerals; seems less oaky today than the ’01. Offers compelling mouthfilling concentration and perfume. A wine of great power and consistency, with a pungent minerality lingering on the palate-staining finish. This somehow doesn’t flag or grow narrower even after one swallows or spits….

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(a blend of 53% merlot and 47% cabernet franc; 43 h/h): Deep ruby. Penetrating blackcurrant, menthol, herbal, cocoa and tobacco aromas. Rich, ripe and dense, with a chocolatey, voluptuous mouth feel but also plenty of acidity to provide lift to the blackcurrant, plum and licorice flavors. Dominated by its merlot component, this wine finishes long…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Cheval Blanc is a wine that I have encountered more than a dozen times. Now at just over 20 years of age (how time flies – I remember tasting this from barrel), it has a lovely, quite beguiling bouquet of brambly red berries, iron rust, Provençal herbs and clove, powerful and somehow enveloping….