Archives: Product Reviews

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2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)

(a blend made from the second pass through the estate older vines; in ’99 this was too good to sell to the negoces, according to de Villaine) Medium red. Sappy aromas of redcurrant, blackberry, plum, spices and chocolate. Juicy, minerally and fresh, with good body and lovely cut. Sweet oak adds complexity. Finishes fresh and…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Saint-Pierre (Saint-Julien) is a powerful, brooding Saint-Julien. Smoke, game, licorice, menthol and grilled herbs add to a feeling of gravitas and pure power. Huge on the palate, with tremendous depth and exceptional balance, Saint-Pierre is once again one of the Sleeper wines of the Left Bank. Don’t miss it. Tasted two times.

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Saint-Pierre has an intriguing bouquet of baked black cherries, dark chocolate, espresso and gamy notes, the oak regime more prominent compared to its peers within this Saint-Julien flight. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, and the oak is more assimilated here than on the nose. Nicely detailed and very poised, although there…

Piedmont’s Glorious 1989 and 1990 Vintages Revisited (Feb 2010)

The 1990 Barbaresco emerges from the glass with an exotic array of tar, smoke, licorice and grilled herbs. There is wonderful intensity to the fruit and plenty of structure. The tannins are still a bit young and the wine is only now beginning to enter the early part of what looks to be a long…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Bright red-ruby. Ripe, scented aromas of raspberry, strawberry, violet, licorice, cedar and wild herbs on the knockout nose. Wonderfully sappy and juicy but not thick, with intense, very pure red berry, white pepper, floral and cedar flavors showing terrific thrust and lift. Finishes dense and long, with repeating floral, white pepper and red berry nuances….

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Cheval Blanc has an elegant, quite refined bouquet with brambly red fruit, scorched earth, terracotta and sage, very complex and harmonious. Could this be Figeac? [Post-script. No, but not far off!] The palate is medium-bodied with rounded tannins, quite plush and sensual, rich for this vintage with plenty of concentrated, quite sweet and…