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Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)

Bright, amber-tinged red. Knockout aromas of ripe red cherry, cassis, milk chocolate and sweet spices. Rich and dense, with fleshy, fully ripe red and black fruit flavors that linger impressively. Big, ripe, sweet, creamy wine; almost opulent, but without any undue weight or overripe aromas or flavors. This has always been one of my favorite…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full red-ruby. Aromas of cherry, leather and meat, with dusty and minty nuances. Then surprisingly sweet and silky in the mouth; classic dry-but-sweet claret flavors framed by firm acids and solid, ripe tannins. Not fat but certainly palate-coating and long. This got better and better with aeration.

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

Good full red. Pure, floral aromas of black cherry and plum are complicated by strong lead pencil and black pepper notes. Suave on entry, then conveys an almost saline sense of extract in the middle, with very good definition and verve to the pretty black fruit, ink and graphite flavors. Distinctly minty on the finish….

Precious Clay: L’Eglise-Clinet 1929–2015 (Jul 2019)

The 2008 l’Eglise-Clinet was picked 1 to 6 October and matured in 80% new oak. It has a very refined and detailed bouquet that is less powerful than the 2009 or 2010, yet there is wonderful articulation of the terroir here, dusky black fruit laced with black truffle and a touch of undergrowth. It is…

Vinous Table: Kitchen W8, London, UK (Mar 2023)

The 2010 Côte-Rôtie Château d’Ampuis is very high-toned on the nose with a little more VA than I would like, aniseed and liquorice infusing the mixture of blue and black fruit. Yet the palate shows much better balance and composure, finely-knit tannins, broad-shouldered with black truffle and kirsch on the dense and impactful finish. Again,…

The 2013 and 2012 Northern Rhône Wines (Feb 2015)

Glass-staining ruby. Potent raspberry, floral pastille and Asian spice scents are complicated by suggestions of mocha, licorice and pipe tobacco. Silky and expansive on the palate, offering sweet red fruit liqueur and cherry-vanilla flavors lifted and sharpened by juicy acidity. Finishes broad, seamless and extremely long, with slow-building tannins adding shape and grip. This expressive…