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2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Bright red-ruby. Ripe, scented aromas of raspberry, strawberry, violet, licorice, cedar and wild herbs on the knockout nose. Wonderfully sappy and juicy but not thick, with intense, very pure red berry, white pepper, floral and cedar flavors showing terrific thrust and lift. Finishes dense and long, with repeating floral, white pepper and red berry nuances….

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Cheval Blanc has an elegant, quite refined bouquet with brambly red fruit, scorched earth, terracotta and sage, very complex and harmonious. Could this be Figeac? [Post-script. No, but not far off!] The palate is medium-bodied with rounded tannins, quite plush and sensual, rich for this vintage with plenty of concentrated, quite sweet and…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Château Margaux has an absolutely sublime bouquet with gravel-tinged black fruit, pressed violet and black truffle, much more opulent than its peers or indeed other vintages yet suffused with grace. The palate is beautifully balanced with plenty of freshness and succulence, pure black fruit, a keen line of acidity and a very harmonious…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Angelus has always been an impressive Saint-Émilion and at 20-years of age that has not changed in recent years. Showing the first signs of ageing on the rim, it has a glorious bouquet that is midway between primary and secondary aromas: cranberry, crushed strawberry and warm leather on an antique armchair; embers and…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Deep ruby-red. Very complex aromas of plum, redcurrant, iron, mocha, cedar, milk chocolate and woodsmoke. Silky-sweet and voluptuous; very suave texture given shape by harmonious, ripe acids. Flavors are deep and complex. The thoroughly ripe tannins hit the palate quite late, allowing the strong fruit, mineral, chocolate and spice flavors to build. Today this shows…

2008 and 2007 White Burgundies (Sep 2009)

Musky, highly complex aromas of lemon, lime and hazelnut. Sweet on entry, then impressively tensile in the middle palate, offering superb intensity to its citrus, spice and mineral flavors. This tactile, penetrating wine builds impressively toward the back end and finishes with outstanding lift and persistence. Rigorous, almost painful, wine, but wonderfully rich for chardonnay…