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Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has an attractive bouquet with melted candle wax, yellow plum and lanolin aromas. I appreciate the typicité in this Corton Charlemagne, and it is well-defined. It’s one of the most intellectual aromatics that you have to sit and ponder. The palate is taut and fresh. There’s a clever reduction at…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin “Mes Favourites” has a lifted, perfumed bouquet with floral scents permeating the vivid dark cherry and raspberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. A little rounder and showing more sucrosity than the “Symphonie,” with a succulent finish. Lovely.

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1993 Lafite-Rothschild has been a rather vexing wine in recent tastings. This time is no different. Like before and typical of the vintage, it feels austere and dry on the nose and you yearn for more fruit. The palate is redeemed by a fine bead of acidity but otherwise this is an atypically brutish…

Keeping Everyone Happy: Southwold Bordeaux 2022

The 2022 Mouton Rothschild has a very expressive, floral bouquet that suggests Margaux, with fabulous delineation and focus. It just seems to billow from the glass. The palate is velvety smooth, with fine acidity and a touch of graphite infusing the black fruit. Restrained and, paradoxically, intense on the finish, this lingers wonderfully in the…

Keeping Everyone Happy: Southwold Bordeaux 2022

The 2022 Léoville Las Cases has a very commendable bouquet, wonderful delineation, the oak seamlessly integrated, quite poised and less heady than its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. Quite bold and assertive, perhaps missing the precision promised by the aromatics. This is one of half-a-dozen Saint-Julien wines that did not correspond to…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

A towering, statuesque Saint-Émilion, the 2022 Figeac is positively stellar. What a wine. The 2022 was bottled at the end of July 2024, a bit late by current standards, so it is a bit reticent. What impresses most is the wine's total integration and balance. All the elements are in the right places. Time in…