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Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Good full red. More spicy and less floral on the nose than the Paje, offering a scent of musky redcurrant. Less lively on the palate too, showing a firm tannic spine to the redcurrant and tobacco flavors. The tannins build on the aftertaste. In contrast to the two 2009s, this wine is more structured than…

Piemonte: 2009 and 2010 Barbaresco Plus Other New Releases (Oct 2012)

Playing true to type, the 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is another of the more open wines in this vintage. But that is only in relative terms. Layers of expressive red fruit, crushed flowers and spices flesh out in this radiant Barbaresco. In most vintages the Pora is one of the more accessible of the Riservas…

Cellar Favorite: 2002 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile (Jun 2015)

Made from grapes culled from the Geisberg and Osterberg grand crus, Trimbach’s Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile is believed by many wine lovers and experts all over the world to have only one problem. That is, having the even more mythical Riesling Clos Ste.Hune under the same family ownership, which fatally removes some of the spotlight from Frédéric Emile,…

Alsace 2002 and 2001 (Nov 2003)

Pale, green-tinged color. Delicate aromas of lime and lemon zest, minerals and earth. Dense and full in the mouth, with ripe but brisk flavors of pineapple, lemon and stone. Boasts the sappy fruit/acid balance of a topnotch Wachau riesling. This was severe prior to its bottling, notes winemaker Pierre Trimbach, but does not seem particularly…

The Best New Wines From Spain (Sep 2005)

Medium red. Superripe aromas of plum and coconut, with notes of leather and tobacco. Fat, silky and sweet, with lovely depth of roasted redcurrant and plum flavor and a complicating, slightly funky leathery nuance; firm acids give the wine a penetrating quality. Finishes nutty and long. A classic old-style Rioja. I would pour this into…

Twenty Years that Transformed the Argentine Wine Industry (Oct 2020)

Clos de Los Siete has been making wine for a decade and a half. Produced in 2009, a warm year, this wine, designed by Michel Rolland with grapes from Vista Flores, is still vivacious and developing. Brick red in color with a nose of truffle and cola with notes of preserved figs and balsam. The…