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The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1998 Petrus never fails to deliver. This is a fabulous example that confirms it is a true tour de force. It has a compelling bouquet with mineral-rich black and red fruit with unerring purity. In this bottle, I notice a hint of hickory not observed previously. The palate is medium-bodied with silky smooth tannins,…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Saturated ruby-red. Multidimensional nose melds black raspberry, mulberry, toffee, minerals, rose petal and roasted oak. Great sweetness, volume and depth; thick but magically light on its feet. Grows broader on the back half with no loss of shape. Firm underlying backbone is currently hidden by seamless fruit. Finishes with big but noble tannins and terrific…

Brilliance in Napa Valley: 2016 & 2015 Cabernets (Jan 2018)

The 2015 Maya is surprisingly powerful and tightly wound. Time in the glass allows the tannins to relax just enough for the fruit to gradually emerge. Like all of the 2015s here, the Maya is still very primary in its expression of fruit. Even so, the wine’s heady, flamboyant personality is very much on display….

Napa Valley’s 2022 & 2023 Cabernet Sauvignons (Dec 2024)

The 2020 Promontory is one of the unqualified successes of this challenging growing season—so much so that I can only conclude that the bottle I tasted in 2023 was not at all representative. Dark cherry, plum, espresso and menthol fill out the layers. There's some edginess in the tannin, but that is a relatively small…

The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

The 2018 Harlan Estate is deep, plush and full of potential. But potential is the key word here, as the 2018 is also very reticent today. Its depth, power and pedigree are all obviously apparent. It is an atypical wine for Napa, as the acids, tannin and structure are all pretty prominent. Hints of black…

Focus on South Africa (Mar 2005)

(for 500 ml.; this is actually a re-creation of the legendary Constantia wine that dates back two centuries) Medium gold. Aromas of orange liqueur, clove and honey, with a whiff of sultana raisin. Very sweet and very spicy, with vibrant acidity giving the wine shape and grip. Impressively long, brisk, palate-staining finish. Exhilarating sweet wine.