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2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Larcis Ducasse is one of the great surprises of this retrospective of nearly two hundred 2005s. A wine of shocking intensity, power and structure, the 2005 is still an infant. Inky dark fruit, gravel, lavender, leather and spice all hit the palate. In the glass, the 2005 is marvelously deep, rich and dark….

Saturday Morning: Larcis Ducasse 1945-2017 (Oct 2020)

The 2005 Larcis Ducasse is blessed with one of my favourite bouquets with redcurrant, cranberry, orange zest and rose petal aromas – really effervescent and engaging. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins, very harmonious and almost Burgundian with tobacco and cedar towards the structured and persistent finish. This is superb and it will give…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Ruby-red. Superripe, vibrant nose offers cherry, blueberry, blackberry, mocha and fruity dark chocolate. Rich and wonderfully fine-grained, with excellent acidity leavening the impression of superripeness and giving cut to the intense dark berry, plum and mineral flavors. Finishes very long and lush, with a fine dusting of tannins and noteworthy subtlety. With its 14.5% alcohol,…

A Quarter of a Century in Chile: A Vertical Tasting of Seña (Aug 2022)

The 2013 Seña is the product of an ideal year in terms of temperature and yields. A blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Carménère, 12% Malbec, 10% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot aged for 22 months in three-quarters new French barrels. Garnet red in hue. A subtle nose of blackcurrant, herbs and clear hints of…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Smith Haut-Lafitte has one of the most backward bouquets among its peers and required more coaxing from the glass. It eventually offers well defined blackberry, wild strawberry, sous-bois and tobacco notes, quite serious but very engaging. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins. There is good body and density here, but it loosens…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Full ruby-red. Very ripe yet precise nose offers blueberry, black raspberry, violet, spices and sexy dried herbs; still a bit youthfully medicinal but already showing a lot of personality. Rich, pliant and hugely deep, with near-chocolatey ripeness to the highly concentrated dark berry, tobacco and spice flavors. This wonderfully broad, seamless, layered wine dusts the…