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Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Léoville Las Cases can be a fabulous wine, although like others there is variation. This has a refined and delineated bouquet with more black fruit compared directly with the Poyferré, cedar and iris flower, scents of Earl Grey emerging with time. I admire the focus and it coheres beautifully in the glass. The…

1997 and 1996 Sauternes (Jul 1999)

Straw-gold. Marzipan, honey and toasted hazelnut on the nose. Moderately viscous and currently rather oaky. Has an impressively chewy texture but is not yet displaying its personality. Finishes with some youthful harshness. The ’97 is at once stronger and finer.

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright, full red. Alluring, terroir-driven aromas of raspberry, minerals, dried flowers, smoky oak and game. Supple on entry, then reticent and taut in the middle, but already showing outstanding energy and depth, not to mention a slightly musky wildness, to its flavors of raspberry, smoky oak and dried flowers. Between the wine’s firm acidity, great…

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Chablis Les Butteaux 1er Cru offers intensity similar to the Montmains, but this is a little more petrolly on the nose, which is beautifully defined and very focused, developing a faint nuttiness with aeration. The palate is well balanced and conveys a sense of energy on the entry. Saline to its core, this…

New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Jan 2021)

The 2018 Ornellaia Bianco is a powerful, dense wine. Orchard fruit, chamomile, saline notes and dried flowers open in the glass, but only with great reluctance. A rich white, the 2018 Bianco possesses tremendous weight, but it is also very much closed in on itself. I am intrigued to see how the 2018 ages.

Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is very attractive and quite complex on the nose with light waxy, dried honey and pressed flower scents. The aromatics here have drive and focus. The palate is well balanced with beautifully-integrated oak, real depth and cohesion—a crescendo that leads to a refined and yet energetic finish that has the…