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La Festa del Barolo 2017 (Oct 2017)

Salon’s 1979 is one of my favorite Champagnes from this historic vintage. The interplay of aromas and textures is captivating, as is the nervous energy that makes the best 1979 Champagnes so compelling. This is a fabulous bottle.

The Wines That Shaped My Life (Mar 2022)

This is the most sublime example of the 1998 l’Eglise-Clinet of many that I have tasted. The 1998 is a Pomerol that, after 23-years, has reached its zenith. It has a simply gorgeous bouquet of ebullient red fruit, black truffle, cedar and pressed rose petals, with exquisite delineation and harmony. That, follows through on the…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Saturated dark ruby. Slightly reduced aromas of sappy berries, minerals and orange peel. Extremely dense in the mouth, with compellingly sweet, powerful flavors of raspberry, minerals and espresso. A rare combination of great breadth and verve. Still a bit withdrawn today from the bottling. But this extract-rich wine should be spectacular in seven or eight…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good full, bright red. Reduced, musky aromas of black raspberry, blueberry, smoke, menthol and game. Dense, sweet and large-scaled, in a deceptively gentle style for young Bonnes-Mares. Turned creamier and more saline in the glass. Finishes with big, rich tannins and strong notes of spices, mocha and chocolate. I predict this will shut down in…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2009 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is poured from magnum by estate manager Jean-Luc Pepin. There’s light bricking on the rim. It has attractive red berry fruit on the nose, with leather, mulch and a light camphor note in the background. The palate is well-balanced with moderate depth. The secondary notes deliver light, meaty elements and…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good ruby-red. Knockout nose combines currant, plum, minerals, licorice and graphite. Wonderfully sweet, rich and deep, but with near-perfect balancing acidity to frame the wine’s lush fruit. This superb 2005 has it all. Finishes with noble, sweet tannins and palate-saturating persistence. On my most recent visit, Prats told me he considered 2005 to be superior…