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A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Château Margaux is a First Growth that I had not tasted for several years. According to the estate, it finally began to open during the pandemic. I remember this was stellar in its flush of youth, and earned a three-figure score from the Southwold blind tasting way back in 2009. Now at two…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2011)

(a blend of 86% cabernet sauvignon and 14% merlot; pH 3.85; 69 IPT; 12.3% alcohol; 85% selection for the grand vin; 85% new oak): Bright deep ruby with the barest hint of garnet; still very youthful. Enticing, complex nose of cassis, smoky cedar, violet, underbrush and kirsch; very Pauillac, if in a ripe style. Dense,…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Mouton-Rothschild is a vintage that famously came in an eye-catching gold-embossed bottle, though I was rather ambivalent about its quality. Now just over two decades old, it has a focused bouquet of blackberry, mint and tobacco/black truffle scents, demonstrating fine intensity if not the show-stopping complexity one might expect from a First Growth…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full medium ruby. Exotic aromas of cassis, roast coffee and sweet oak. Sweet, thick and oaky, with superb breadth of flavor; at once chewy and smooth. An impressively rich, ripe, oaky Mouton with palate-staining length and strong finishing oakiness. But less noble and scented than the young 2002, which may be every bit as dense.

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 2004 Petrus is not one of the strongest wines of the decade, though it remains a fine Pomerol. The bouquet does not hold back with splendid fruit concentration: floral top notes with pressed violets and shaved black truffles, traits I observed in previous bottles. The palate is gracefully moving into its secondary phase with…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Deep medium red. Subtly complex aromas of mulberry, red cherry, toffee, caramel, iron and flowers. A bit narrow on entry, then expands in the middle palate without any loss of focus. A very firmly built, vibrant and classy 2004 with a tight mineral core and ineffable spice character. This is by far the most backward…