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A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Cos Estournel is a vintage that I had not tasted for several years, made in the temporary winery at the time using a vertical press and peristaltic pumps for the first time. Deep in colour with light bricking on the rim, it has a thoroughly enjoyable nose that has matured a little since…

Vinous Table: La Pagode de Cos & Restaurant Le Gabriel, Paris, France

The 2005 Cos d’Estournel is a real head-turner. What a wine. The soaring, exotic bouquet is immediately alluring. Spice box, new leather, mocha, blackberry, graphite and espresso announce a wine of exotic, beguiling beauty. Each taste reveals a different facet of this great, great wine from proprietor Michel Reybier. Simply put, the 2005 Cos d’Estournel…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2010)

(55% pinot noir and 45% chardonnay) Light, bright gold. Spicy citrus and orchard fruit aromas are complemented by chalk, white flowers and a touch of smokiness. Taut, linear lemon and orange rind flavors give way to deeper pear in the mid-palate and pick up notes of honeysuckle and toasted grain with air. Still very young…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2004 Cristal is nuanced and classy right out of the gate. Hints of lemon confit, marzipan, tangerine oil, spice and chamomile are all suggestive of a Champagne that has arrived at its first inflection point of early maturity. The interplay of slightly more mature notes with a good deal of freshness makes for an…

2002 and 2001 Red Burgundies (Mar 2004)

Medium red. High-pitched nose dominated by fresh raspberry. Juicy and pure but youthfully backward, with notes of red fruits and stone. Perfumed in the mouth but less showy today than the village wine. A bit tough on the back end and in need of at least three or four years of patience.

Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1997 Pichon-Baron has a light bouquet of dusty black fruit, rather leathery and missing a little definition. It has fatigued since I last tasted it. The medium-bodied palate is thin and simple, with dry tannin, and now lacks vigor toward the finish. Even in the context of a problematic vintage, this is an underwhelming…